Syringa, commonly known as Lilac, is a genus of fragrant, spring-blooming shrubs and small trees prized for their clusters of colourful flowers (purple, pink, white, blue) and sweet scent. They're a popular cottage-garden favourite for borders, using as hedging or as specimen plants, with nectar rich flowers which attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. These hardy, sun-loving shrubs thrive in well-drained soil and are known for their heart-shaped leaves. Syringa vulgaris (Common Lilac) is the most widespread variety, however there are now many beautiful cultivars which offer low-maintenance colour along with an equally resilient nature.

Lilacs prefer a position which will receive at least six hours for sun during the day, in moist, well-drained and fertile soil.

How to plant

— Syringa bare roots are supplied in spring for planting between February and May. Bare root plants and shrubs need quite speedy attention after delivery, requiring light and moisture to survive, they cannot be stored in the packaging for a long time. If you can't plant on the day of delivery, remove from the packaging and place the root in a bucket of water outside to soak, then plant within a week.

— Soak the roots in water for 3-6 hours prior to planting. Syringa are fairly resilient and unfussy however they will need a gentle start and careful monitoring while they settle in. They are often successful when planted directly into a border, however the soil must be good quality, free draining and free of weeds. Allow sufficient space around neighbouring established plants which will compete. Dig over the area and remove any weeds, then dig a hole which is large enough to fit the roots, the stem and branches should remain above the soil surface after planting. Ensure the hole is the correct depth so that the roots are fully submerged and the soil is level with the point at which the roots meet the stem.

— You can improve growing conditions in the immediate area by mixing in some organic matter like compost or leaf mould to the planting hole while planting. This provides a soft and nutrient-rich medium and to help the roots settle in and grow. Avoid adding too much organic matter or manure to the planting hole as this can be too rich and damage the young roots.

— Position the shrub in the hole with the best side facing into the garden, then backfill the hole with soil and firm down, ensuring the base of the stem is level with the soil surface. Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the roots.

— If you have challenging growing conditions/poor soil (heavy clay or light sandy soil, crowded planting space) or if the border isn't ready for planting, it is recommended to pot up your bare root shrub so it can grow on and establish before transferring into a border later in the year for most reliable results. Pot up the bare root into a 20-30cm temporary pot using multipurpose or soil based compost. Ensure the roots are fully submerged with the base of the stem level with the soil surface. Water thoroughly and position the potted shrub in a sheltered position outside to grow on. The shrub can be transplanted to borders once growth is established and the plant easily comes out of the pot with the compost held together in a root ball.

— When planting into the garden, choose a position in full sun or partial shade with moist but well-drained soil.

— This shrub is deciduous and will lose its leaves for winter. New leaves will begin to grow in spring. It is fully hardy and does not require winter protection.

— Water immediately after planting and continue regularly during the first growing season to help the shrub settle in. Once established, watering should only be necessary during particularly dry spells.

Aftercare

— Syringa bare roots are dormant when supplied and do not usually have leaves on arrival. Leaves will begin to emerge in spring from around March/April.

— Keep the surrounding soil consistently moist in the first year. During hot/dry spells, water the area thoroughly in the evening or early morning, ensuring moisture soaks down to the roots.

— For the first 1-2 years, a light trim or deadheading after flowering is often all that is required to help your lilac shrub bush out and develop a good shape. From the second or third year onwards, you can prune harder in winter, cutting back by around one third or removing some stems or branches entirely to form a well-branched framework. Also in winter or early spring before the leaves emerge, remove any dead/dying branches or stems.

— Apply a mulch of organic matter in winter or spring to feed the shrub and help retain moisture in the soil.

— Once the Lilac is very mature, you can rejuvenate it by removing entirely any very old stems if the framework seems crowded. This should encourage new, more productive stems and branches to grow.

Read further general instructions about planting bare-root shrubs