As well as the satisfying process of growing your own cut flowers, there are clear benefits besides flowers in a vase:
— Growing your own flowers is a much more environmentally friendly way to source flowers for the home. The air miles are zero when you only need to step outside for glorious, fresh and long-lasting blooms. Of course, there is also no packaging needed.
— You can grow your personal favourites that you cannot find anywhere else. There’s a diverse selection of seasonal blooms which can be grown, some of which are not readily available from your florist or supermarket. This also means you can create distinctive arrangements unique to your taste and style!
— Growing your own flowers is easy on your pocket. After the initial investment of buying perennials to grow, by their very nature, they will come back each season. Each year, perennials tend to form a larger clump which will produce more flowering stems. Once your perennials are established, you can also divide the clump and share them with fellow plant lovers.
— You can enjoy longer lasting arrangements by cutting flowers just before they fully open. Arranged within minutes of being picked, they couldn’t be fresher.
— Growing your own cut flowers is fun, rewarding, good for you and good for nature. Not only will you benefit physically and mentally from the work your put into your cutting garden, you’ll also be providing a bounty of nectar for pollinators.
Knowing where to start can be the first hurdle. Let us point you in the right direction if you’re starting from scratch. With this guide, we hope you will be encouraged to don your boots and get in the garden, making the first step towards creating your very own flower patch.
Choose the right spot
It is important to choose the best location and taking account of certain factors will help to decide where to start your flower patch.
Purpose
Do you want to adapt your current border to simply include more varieties that can be cut—or would it be better to designate an area of the garden purely to cutting flowers? This about how many flowers you intend to cut – if it’s just for personal use or for a constant supply of flowers in larger numbers. Adapting a current border is a great solution if you only intend to cut once a week for personal use, however if you want to cut more than a couple of vases worth of stems each week, the best approach would be to assign part of the garden or allotment to your project.
Aspect
Choose a position that is generally sunny most of the time. Plants need the sun to create blooms, and a shady spot will limit the number of cut flowers produced. Ideally, you will need a patch that is in full sun for at least 6 hours on most days. That said, there are some varieties which prefer to grow in shade and you could assign a separate space for those.
Soil type
Check your soil type and adjust if needed/possible. Alternatively, you can choose plants which thrive in the type of soil you have available. Not all plants will grow in all soil types and knowing your soil is a very important factor to consider. A poor soil will bring a poor yield in some varieties. Planting something in the wrong soil type can also lead to disappointment. If you have a heavy soil, you can consider combining some organic matter to start to break it down, give better drainage and make it more friable—this will help your plants develop a good root system, make water and nutrients more readily available and bring a high yield of flowers. The same goes for very light soils, which are likely to need enriching.
You can also consider at this point if raised beds may be a good option as you can choose the soil which goes into them. Bear in mind that raised soil levels may require additional watering as they will tend to dry out quicker in hotter weather.
Hardiness
Some of the best cut flowers are not fully hardy, which means that during winter they may need some frost protection. Consider designating an area for more tender plants to grow where you can erect a small polytunnel of simple cane and horticultural fleece structure during winter, or set aside a storage space for overwintering lifted summer bulbs and tubers.
Prepare your cutting garden
You will need to have your bed prepared for planting cut flowers either during autumn or spring, but you can make a start on preparing it anytime. This will mean that the bed is cleared of all unwanted plants, weeds, roots, and large stones and it is thoroughly dug over. While the bed is empty, it’s well worth enriching the soil with a good quality mulch, such as well rotted leaf mould or compost. This will help young roots to develop, keep any weeds down and assist in maintaining the soil moisture. Leave the newly prepared areas bare for at least a few weeks prior to planting, that way it is easy to remove any missed weeds.
When to plant a cutting garden
You can plant spring-flowering bulbs between September and December and summer-flowering bulbs between March and mid-May. Take time to carefully choose your bulbs from our seasonal range in advance of those planting seasons and they will be shipped to you at the correct planting time.
Most spring flowering bulbs are fully hardy and can be planted directly outside. Some, such as anemones and ranunculus may need protection from harsh winter weather. This can be in the form of cloches, a small structure using canes and a cover, or simply a thick mulch if temperatures are not likely to fall below -5°C.
Some of the best summer cut flowers, such as dahlias, are not frost hardy. They should be grown on in spring in frost free conditions, or planted directly into your cutting garden area once risk of frost has passed.
How much time does a cutting garden take to maintain?
An important consideration is also how much time you intend to make available to care for your cutting patch. Don’t take on a large space if you may not have time to maintain it during the growing season. Some plants may require staking, regular deadheading/cutting, potting up and growing on, frost protection or winter storage. There will also be weeding and watering to make time for during the summer months.
A small personal supply of flowers will require less time however the more flowers you require, the more time you will need to commit to tending to the patch and usually a daily routine is essential. A successful cutting garden is a year-round commitment—outside of the growing season, digging, mulching and weeding to prepare for the season ahead needs to take place.
Once you have found the perfect spot to create your cutting garden, the next part of the process is how to arrange it, what shape should it be, and where to plant everything. The shape of your patch may be dictated by the amount of space you have available, the shape of your garden plot and also where the sunny areas are.
Considering the shape of your border now will make life easier when it comes to cutting your flowers. A border that is too deep with limited access through your plants will restrict your ability to reach in and cut stems. A good width would be around 2 meter with access from both sides to reach into the middle. A wider border is perfectly manageable too, just be sure to leave enough space between your plants to be able to access for cutting, or leave a narrow pathway through the middle.
When choosing where to plant your chosen varieties, do so according to their height. Taller varieties should be at the back of a border which is accessed from only one side, or in the middle if your cutting patch is accessible from all sides. Lower-growing varieties should be positioned in front of tall varieties so you have an incline of plant heights.
If you are growing tall plants which may become top heavy, such as dahlias or lilies, it’s worth putting something in to support them and ensure they stay upright through the season. The most effective way is to create a grid with twine between canes which are pushed firmly into the soil around the edge of the cutting patch at a spacing of around 20-30cm. The twine should be tied to the canes at each end of the areas to create a grid support. It is much easier to include a support for your plants to grow through than to support each plant once it is already fully grown.
Most importantly, choose flowers that you like! When starting this endeavour, it’s best to choose plants that you are fond of—it adds motivation and a sense of pride and achievement to the process of growing, especially when growing for personal use.
Seasonality is an important aspect if you want flowers available for cutting over a long period of time. Choosing varieties that flower in succession from spring to autumn will ensure there is always something available to cut in the garden.
Choose plants and flowers that will cut and come again. Plants that will readily create more flowers in the same season once blooms have been cut are a brilliant choice for maintaining a high yield and extending the period of available blooms. Some great reliable varieties that will repeat flower once established include Dahlia, Achillea, Salvia, Rudbeckia, Astrantia, Phlox, and Sidalcea.
You may choose your selection based on a particular event, a wedding for example, which has a particular colour scheme. It is worth noting at this point that growing perennials for a wedding will require two good seasons for your plants to mature to a good flowering stage. During their first and sometimes second season, while these reliable plants are getting a good footing and putting down roots, the flowers can be minimal so you should pad out your displays with first-year flowering plants like dahlias, ranunculi, anemones and lilies in the meantime.
You may want to grow for scent—there is no sweeter smell than that of a freshy-cut flower that you have grown yourself! Even the most fragrant flowers start to lose their scent once cut. Freshness is key to a highly fragrant bouquet, and growing your own is the best way to ensure they’re as fresh as possible.
Top 5 summer/autumn cut-flower varieties to grow:
Peonies
A classic cut flower, long-adored for its long-lasting blooms, luxurious, silky petals and delicate fragrance. Another plus is that Paeonia is a long-living and very low maintenance hardy perennial that will offer more blooms year on year.
Dahlias
Dahlias are on trend not only because there is such a wide variety of colours and shapes, but because they repeatedly produce perfect blooms all through summer and well into autumn. The more dahlia flowers you cut, the more will grow.
Achillea
This is a hardy perennial which is low maintenance, easy to care for and a great filler or background flower that will enhance other flowers in the vase or bouquet. Yarrow plants are available in gorgeous dusky pastel tones as well as bright boho colours. The Achillea flowers are incredibly long lasting both in the garden and once cut, plus they have good stem length.
Monarda
Bergamot plants come in various shades and are an interesting textural addition to the cut-flower patch. Perhaps considered a background plant, once cut this wonderful bloom offers a unique edge to your display as well as a hint of bergamot fragrance.
Phlox
Each flowerhead is formed of dozens of fragrant blooms and they come in a wide range of beautiful colours. Phloxes last well in a vase and this plant will send up new stems after cutting for a later cutting. Also a hardy perennial, they will grow back each year, they’re low maintenance and don’t require any winter protection.
Top 5 spring cut-flower varieties to grow:
Tulips
An absolute must for a spring cut flower patch because there are so many Tulip varieties to choose from with various flower shapes and almost a full spectrum of colours. Choose tall varieties with long stems, and also note that there are early, mid and late tulips—planting a selection means you can cut tulips between March and mid May.
Anemones
These pretty and delicate blooms can be cultivated through the winter for a spring flowering season, or planted in spring for summer flowers. Long bare stems make anemones perfect for cutting and they have a long vase life, especially in a cool environment. With such a wide range of colours, there is one to suit any occasion and all tastes!
Muscari
With their short stems they may not be an obvious choice, however Muscari or grape hyacinths make great little table arrangements! Their form contrasts well with other blooms and the blue varieties shout spring when teamed with pinks and yellows.
Ranunculus
An autumn sowing will ensure you have these stunners available for picking during spring. You can also plant Ranunculus in spring for summer flowers. Often used as an early alternative to peony, these petal-packed blooms come in so many colours and have lovely long stems with minimal foliage, making them easy to cut and use in bouquets and vases.
Alliums
Bold and statuesque, alliums are great for creating drama in larger arrangements when using a tall variety. There are also shorter varieties that look great in a standard vase. With colours that blend well in most palettes, alliums are a useful addition for late spring/early summer arrangements.
— If growing flowers for business or for an event, you should make sure that you have a wide range of contrasting flower forms and some fillers that compliment larger single feature blooms, such as Achillea or Gypsophila.
— Cut the stem as long as possible depending on how you intend to use the flower once cut. Cut above a node so that the plant can produce another stem or bud afterwards. Cut clump-forming perennials at the base of the stem and the roots will push up new stems. Bulbs can be cut at the base of the flowering stem, but leave any foliage intact where possible to feed the bulb for next season, if leaving in situ.
— Remember that tulips will not reliably perform year after year (this is particularly important if you are cutting for business) unless you have selected from the botanical or Darwin hybrid range. This means that you need to replace tulip bulbs each year to ensure good growth and reliable blooms that are true to type.
— Cut your flowers early in the morning before temperatures rise. Place your cut stems straight into a clean sterile bucket of fresh water. Remove any foliage as you go if possible and allow them to drink for 24 hours before you arrange them into a bouquet. Use fresh water in all your arrangements and keep in a cool location until you are ready to display them.
— If using Narcissus you should keep these in a separate bucket of water for 24 hours. These wonderful blooms look great with other flowers, but when cut will exude a white poisonous sap. Keeping them separate will allow much of the sap to dissipate into the water and they can then be used without affecting the other flowers.
]]>Tropical planting schemes are characteristically full of soothing verdant foliage, and there are also many which brandish colourful leaves or flowers. Flowering tropical plants deliver sizzling colours and unusual flower forms that stand out against the leafy backdrop. You can enjoy a tropical planting scheme indoors or out, but it is essential to remember when growing tropical plants outdoors that they don’t like to get cold, so they can only go outside during the summer months in cool climates. When outside, they are best in a sheltered or secluded garden where wind can’t damage their leaves.
Tropical plants like Caladium, Colocasia and Gloriosa can be incorporated into a summer planting scheme once the weather is reliably warm. To get them started, in spring the bulbs should be planted into pots and positioned in a warm, bright spot indoors.
Take a look at our full range of tropical bulbs and plant and discover a blast of splashy colours you can enjoy in your garden. You may need to work your green-fingered magic a little harder with tropical bulbs because they do require a bit more care and understanding than plants which are better adapted to our climate, so if you want a full-to the-brim jungle garden we recommend padding out your planting scheme with some lower maintenance, non-tropical varieties and then incorporating in any special tropical treasures that you can manage. Non-tropical varieties which have a long flowering time, exotic feel and combine well with tropical plants include coral-coloured cactus dahlias (which also have plenty of lush foliage), lilies, callas, cannas and even bright begonias which can really pop in the shadier understorey.
After summer, you’ll need to protect your tropical plants from cold autumn and winter temperatures. Perennial bulbs will naturally die back in autumn so the bulbs can be lifted from the soil and stored in dry, airy conditions over winter. Average room temperature or slightly lower is usually fine for storing tropical bulbs while they are dormant. Frost-free conditions, such as an unheated greenhouse or shed may be a little too cold for some tropical varieties which can result in unsuccessful storage. If your tropical bulbs remain in pots, you can bring the pot indoors in autumn and keep the soil dry over winter while they’re resting. Alocasia can remain evergreen indoors.
Many tropical bulbs can be grown indoors and bring some seasonal colour to your indoor garden. If you’re keeping plants indoors, it’s essential that you give them a space which receives a lot of natural daylight, although try to avoid positioning plants right up against a sunny window, because strong sunlight can scorch the leaves. Slightly further back, the sunlight will be more filtered and less damaging.
You should consider plant shelving, racks or indoor hanging containers to create that much-desired, floor to ceiling wall of plants. If you have enough space, position houseplants across two walls or a corner, or even three walls in a smaller room, to create a lush dense cosy plant-packed surround for a seating area or work space. If you happen to have a conservatory which is heated during winter, this is perfect for exotic plants and you can really go to town with the tropical planting, building your collection over the years to turn it into an indoor exotic garden.
Plants with height and large leaves, like Colocasia and Alocasia are a great place to start, because one bulb will produce a relatively large and leafy plant which can give you that jungle vibe fairly quickly. Bulbs like Caladium are smaller but colourful, rewarding to grow and quite good fun to collect. Crinum asiaticum grows from an impressively large bulb, producing large purple strap-shaped leaves which contrasts with neighbouring greenery. Add to your indoor jungle some fascinating flowering plants like Scadoxus, Lycoris or Plumeria and you can enjoy extra excitement through the season.
There’s no shortage of species that will give your garden an exotic feel. Cannas and Hedychium (ginger lilies) are popular for their captivating blooms and imposing stature in sunny borders. Once established, they can be fairly resilient and can simply be lifted and stored in an unheated greenhouse each winter or shed over winter, just like dahlias.
You’ll also need some jazzy foliage, so opt for shade-loving caladiums which come in a myriad of patterns and colours. They’re fairly low growing, which makes them ideal for underplanting in a sheltered space. Mingle them with Colocasia and Alocasia with their huge heart-shaped leaves, and you already have the beginnings of a secluded leafy hideaway.
Something a little different to show off to your guests is Amorphophallus bulbifer. It’s usually only seen in botanical glasshouses, but this jungle native can flourish outdoors in a very sheltered spot, even tolerating light frost. Especially for a conservatory or a bright windowsill, Plumeria is a compact tree (which can be pruned to stay small)—it’s a striking houseplant which throws out flowers with an exquisite fragrance.
For more inspiration, explore our full range of tropical bulbs and plants!
When your tropical bulbs arrive, open the packaging to check that they are in perfect condition, you may also need to take a moment to absorb how unfamiliar they look. Colocasia esculenta and Crinum asiaticum 'Purpureum' are impressive bulbs which deserve some pre-planting admiration! You should get all tropical bulbs potted as soon as possible while they’re fresh.
If you can’t plant them straight away, you can usually store them for a few weeks in a cool, dry place indoors. Avoid storing tropical bulbs in a cold place even if it is frost free, because these species aren’t adapted for cold temperatures and can quickly deteriorate.
Before you begin, please take a look at our helpful growing guides to learn exactly how each species likes to be grown. They all have specific requirements, so to avoid a disappointing experience you should take time to find out their preferences.
Getting the temperature right for tropical bulbs
Most tropical bulbs are planted in the spring, but the temperatures outside during spring will not be warm enough for these delicate plants, even if there is no risk of frost. Very tender species such as caladiums and colocasias need constant temperatures of around 20°C to break their dormancy. These should be potted-up and positioned in a warm, bright spot indoors. Once the bulbs have sprouted and the weather is consistently warm, they can be moved outside. Plumerias are also very tender and ideally should be indoors all year round. You can position them outside in the height of summer—during which time they require temperatures of above 20°C. In winter they should be kept in conditions no cooler than around 15°C.
Slightly hardier tropical species, such as Gloriosa, Canna, Calla, Sauromatum, Eucomis, Hedychium, and Cardiocrinum, can be started in a greenhouse or cool conservatory in temperatures now lower than around 10°C. Once they are all growing well and risk of frost has passed (usually by around mid May) they can be moved outdoors or transplanted into their final positions. These varieties can also be planted directly outside in May, although it is better to give them the head-start indoors first if you can.
Choosing pots for tropical bulbs
Growing tropical bulbs inevitably means that your window areas and greenhouse benches will be lined with pots of newly sprouting bulbs and tubers in spring. You’ll need to maximise the space you have so always choose pots that are the just big enough to comfortably contain your bulb or tuber.
Over-potting wastes space, but also risks the plant rotting before it has a chance to grow. Where there is a greater volume of soil, this will also hold an increased volume of water which can be detrimental to dormant bulbs. For the same reason, its equally important that the pots have sufficient drainage holes to ensure that any excess water is able to escape after each watering. Plants growing in pots can be potted up when required, so if you notice that the pot is filling with roots, you can move it into a pot the next size up.
What soil to use for tropical bulbs
Tropical bulbs generally enjoy a rich and fertile, well-drained soil, although some demand speedier drainage so it’s worth checking their preference before you start. Always use a fresh bag of good quality, multipurpose compost unless a more specific growing mix is advised in our growing guides.
Once they have outgrown their first pots, they can be potted up into larger pots. Multipurpose generally works well for a full growing season, or for some varieties you can choose a loam-based compost such as John Innes number 2, which has a little more body.
If you are planting tropical bulbs like cannas directly into borders after risk of frost has passed, it’s essential to make sure the soil is well dug and free draining. Some garden soils can be heavy and hold too much moisture which can rot a tender bulb in cool climates. Before planting, improve the soil by digging in plenty of compost or well-rotted organic matter. This will help to feed the soil and improve drainage which encourages good establishment.
Planting depth for tropical bulbs
Tropical bulbs have specific requirements so it pays to read our online growing guides for each variety before to check specific planting depths when they arrive. Checking the correct planting depth is particularly important. Unlike many hardy bulbs, some tropical varieties prefer quite shallow planting, such as calla lilies, caladiums and colocasias. In a cool climate, deeper planting means that they are not only cooler, but also wetter, and this can cause them to rot.
Light levels for tropical plants
Light is an important variable for the growth of tropical plants. In their natural habitats, some will enjoy basking in bright sunshine, while others prefer dappled shade/filtered light. Mimicking their natural habitat will produce the best displays and prevent spindly growth or scorched leaves.
If growing indoors, a north or east-facing window usually ideal for shade loving species indoors. However, they do benefit from the extra warmth of a sunny window while they are still dormant or just starting to sprout.
If position them outside, follow each plant’s preferences on sunlight levels. cannas, for example, like to be in full sun, whereas caladiums thrive in shade or partial shade.
When to water tropical bulbs
Tropical bulbs can take many weeks to come out of dormancy, and during this time they are vulnerable to rotting if the soil remains consistently wet. Many of the larger-leaved tropical species have an insatiable thirst in summer when they are in full growth, but while they are dormant they require very little water.
Aim to keep the soil slightly damp but never soaking wet—water tropical bulbs well after planting, but allow any excess water to drain thoroughly from the pot. You won’t need to water them again until you see that compost is starting to dry out, and then only apply sufficient water to make it damp again.
Once your plants start to grow, you will notice that the compost dries out more frequently because the roots are using the available water as they grow. However, the same principles apply—aim to maintain a damp soil and always allow the pot to drain afterwards.
Feeding tropical bulbs
Bulbs act like a food store for the plant, which means that they don’t require additional feeding to perform well. However, they will benefit from additional feeding during the growing season. Like all plants, tropical species require nutrients to grow and mostly this is provided by good quality compost. After a while, potted plants can become deficient of nutrients if no further nutrients are added to their growing environment, so a fortnightly liquid all-purpose feed can be applied.
Dormancy and overwintering tropical plants
As summer ends, tropical plants will notice the drop in temperatures and may start to droop or fade. When their growth starts to slow down, they will need less water and no more feed. The leaves of perennial tropical bulbs will naturally begin to die back. Tropical plants (depending on species) should either be moved indoors or stored away in frost-free conditions before frost occurs.
More resilient species like cannas, ginger lilies and dahlias can either be moved in their pots to a greenhouse for winter or lifted and stored in cool, dry, frost-free conditions. Caladiums and colocasias must be stored in a warmer environment than a shed or greenhouse, such as in a cool part of your home. They can be kept in their pots with dry soil over winter, or lifted and stored in crates with a light covering of loose, dry compost.
It’s worth checking stored tubers from time to time. Remove and dispose of any which are turning soft or mushy to prevent them affecting the rest of your stored plants. Once the warmer spring weather returns from March onwards you can take them out of storage and repot them to begin their growth cycle again.
]]>To get the best from clay soil, it’s worth understanding what gives clay its characteristics. Before we get onto plants, we’re going to get scientific about soil...
Properties of clay soil
Clay particles are flat in shape with a diameter of less than 0.002mm. By comparison a sandy soil has much larger particles of 0.02 to 2mm with a more rounded shape and larger spaces between each particle. This allows water to pass freely between the gaps making sandy soils free draining, and prone to drought. In contrast, clay soil particles are smaller and flatter, which allows for less space between each particle for the movement of air and water. Therefore, a clay soil retains more moisture because water finds it harder to drain between such tiny gaps. Being a wetter soil, clay is also slower to warm up in spring which can mean that plants take a little longer to start into growth.
The flat shape of the particles also means that the soil can also become compacted much more easily. In fact, this type of soil will even retain its shape if you try to mould a small quantity in your hand. Once the soil becomes compacted, oxygen finds it harder to penetrate the soil and carbon dioxide can struggle to escape. The density of it makes growing conditions quite challenging for plant roots.
An interesting and lesser-known characteristic of clay is that the particles have a positive electrical charge which attracts water, much like when two magnets are pulled together. It is more difficult for plant roots to draw water away from this attraction and access the moisture, even when plenty is available!
Pros and cons of clay soil
Improving clay soil
Improving the consistency of clay soil is a gradual process and can take some years and quite a lot of digging, but it’s very worthwhile. The aim is to hang on to the benefits of clay, whilst making the texture it a little easier to work with. The best time to set about improving clay soil is late autumn and early spring. Avoid working on clay soil during winter because that is when it will be at its wettest, most difficult to dig and easily compacted. Likewise, avoid this job in summer when the soil is dry and hard.
The first step is dig over the area to a spade’s depth, breaking up any clumps as you go. This process reduces compaction and improves the texture. Secondly, pile on a thick layer of mulch, such as leaf mould or compost, and then dig that in to the existing soil.
Incorporating plenty of organic matter (mulch, well-rotted manure, compost) can help to loosen up clay soil. If done repeatedly in late autumn and/or early spring each year, it will steadily improve drainage and texture. It’s tempting to add sand or grit to aid drainage, but this is very heavy work and unless you use a huge quantity, it will make very little difference to the overall composition of the soil. The addition of organic matter is far more feasible and effective.
If you also have patio pots for summer and spring bedding or bulbs, empty the old compost from the pot onto your borders at the end of the season. It’s only a little but it will help with texture and it’s also a good use of old compost.
Planting in clay soil
Plan to undertake any planting between March and the end of May, once the soil is less soggy after winter and before the ground becomes hard again in summer. You can also plant in autumn – typically between September and late November is a good time. After you have dug a hole for planting, include some compost to the bottom of the planting hole so that the new roots can easily start to grow. When the soil is wet, you can lay out a plank of wood to stand on whilst planting, this spreads your weight across a wider area and reduces compaction.
Maintaining clay soil
Dig out weeds as and when you see them while they’re still small and before they drop seed. If you allow weeds to flower, you will soon find that you have far more weeds growing from the seeds they dispersed. Also, the roots will be easier to remove entirely before they become large and burrow deep into the clay.
Where planting schemes are well established, you can apply an annual mulch of well-rotted organic matter in autumn or spring. Provide a generous blanket of mulch to a depth of 5-8cm. This will help protect it from moisture loss over summer and provide valuable nutrients as the mulch decomposes. As a bonus, it also helps to improve soil texture and suppress weed growth.
Choosing the right plants for clay soil is essential for a successful planting scheme. Although some effort to improve the soil will certainly increase the range of plants that can be grown, it’s always best to select plants that will enjoy these growing conditions rather than trying to amend the conditions to suit the plant.
Clay soil can support many beautiful plant types. With careful selection, you can grow plants that will positively flourish, blossoming into a fabulous well stocked garden that you can feel proud of. Whether you’re looking for suitable plants to grow in sun or shade, or to flower in spring or summer, you can discover the range available by following the links below.
Summer-flowering plants for sunny areas with clay soil:
These plants will enjoy a position that receives sun for at least 6 hours a day. However, many are quite versatile so you will also see some of them listed as being suitable for a partially shaded area with clay soil as well.
View the full range of summer-flowering plants for a combination of full sun/part shade and clay soil.
Summer-flowering plants for shade with clay soil:
These plants demand less sun, coping well in locations which receive lower light levels. They are suitable for areas in partial shade (receiving less than 6 hours of direct sun per day), and some even prefer those cool, dark borders in dappled or full shade.
View the full range of summer-flowering plants for a combination of shade and clay soil.
Spring-flowering plants for sunny area with clay soil:
Spring brings longer days, and warmer weather! A clay soil can take a little longer to warm up so you’ll find that the earliest bulbs start into growth slightly later than gardens with lighter soils.
View the full range of spring-flowering plants for a combination of full sun/partial shade and clay soil.
Spring-flowering plants for shade with clay soil:
Spring bulbs can be particularly useful where a canopy of deciduous trees creates shade in summer. In spring before tree leaves appear, the bare branches allow a little extra light to reach ground level so that spring bulbs can flourish.
View the full range of spring-flowering plants for a combination of full shade/partial shade and clay soil.
]]>Instant impact, ready-grown flowering plants may seem appealing, but they can be expensive and often their performance is short-lived. In terms of longevity, establishing hardy perennials from bare roots is a more cost effective and also rewarding way to achieve those much-desired garden goals.
There are plenty of benefits to choosing bare root perennials, which is perhaps why they are so rapidly increasing in popularity. Bare root perennials are an economical, reliable and more environmentally friendly choice. Read on to discover more about bare roots and all the benefits you can look forward to by growing them...
When a plant is supplied as a bare root, what you receive is the root system of a plant which is in a dormant state. While dormant, the root system doesn’t require much in the way of moisture or light to keep it fresh and healthy before it’s replanted. The root system will be joined at the top by the crown of the plant – the area from where the shoots emerge. Some roots, such as peonies, are chunkier and look more stick-like with visible buds on the sides.
When perennials establish, they tend to form larger clumps which can be lifted when dormant, split into multiple pieces and then replanted so that they grow into new established clumps. Bare root plants are treated in a similar way, by simply lifting (harvesting) them when they are dormant, then transporting them in time to be replanted before they wake up again in spring. The plant is subjected to minimal disturbance during this process while it is in a state of dormancy, before the new season’s root growth starts to take place.
Dividing and lifting perennials is something which has been done by gardeners for centuries to split and multiply plants. There’s no need to change a system which works perfectly well—this old and trusted method is particularly successful because it relieves the congested clump and also leaves you with larger number of healthy plants, so it’s a win-win.
Bare roots are lifted while the plant is dormant and then carefully packaged so that they remain fresh until it’s time to plant them. Freshly harvested plants which have been lifted, transported and replanted while dormant can start the growing season in their new location with all the enthusiasm and vigour that it had in the year before.
If you’ve ordered potted plants online before, you’ll know that sometimes they can take a turn for the worse in transit. There’s nothing more disappointing than seeing a damaged plant on arrival, but fortunately this doesn’t happen with bare root perennials. Because they aren’t in pots of soil, don’t have fragile top growth and can be packed tightly and securely, it doesn’t matter which way up the box is delivered, the roots will be carefully packaged and safe inside your parcel so there are no nasty surprises when you open it.
Compared with seed or cutting-raised plants, bare roots are already fairly mature and naturally have more vigour and growing potential in the first season than plant which is starting life from scratch. This means that in the first year, you can expect a bigger, stronger plant than you would if you sowed seeds or planted cuttings of the same variety.
Healthy growth also depends on the plant being allowed to settle in quietly. This is another bonus to planting dormant bare roots—once they have been potted or planted, they can simply concentrate on growing in tune with the season and without any setbacks. It’s best to get all transplanting done before plants start to grow because disturbance can be really damaging to a new plant—this term is usually referring to root disturbance. In spring, the plant will start to produce new root growth which is very fragile and also crucial for the plant’s survival. The worst kind of damage is the kind that you can’t really see without a microscope, affecting the tiny hair-like fibres which cover each new root and give it a much larger surface area for absorbing water and nutrients. If you remove a growing plant from soil, the soil will take many of those tiny root hairs with it, meaning the plant is greatly set back or may even die.
Due to the fact that harvesting, preparing, storing and shipping bare root plants is less laborious, risky and requires far less space and artificial resource, you can usually pick up bare root plants at a better price than those which are supplied ready-grown in pots. Considering it doesn’t take a lot of time or work to pot up bare root plants yourself at home, it’s usually a saving worth having.
Another factor which makes bare root perennials a great value way to fill your garden is that hardy perennials will grow back every year, usually bigger and better than the previous year. They do take time to fill out, but they are certainly an excellent investment for your garden for the long term.
Planting bare root perennials is really quite simple—anyone can do it! We recommend potting them up first in temporary pots, allowing them to grow a root ball in the pot and also some top growth. In a pot of its own, there’s soft compost, no competition from other plants and birds are less likely to peck at them. Hardy perennials can be potted up and grown on outdoors for 2-3 months, then planted into borders once they have established some initial growth. If you allow the plant to grow in the pot until it has enough roots to hold the soil together in a root ball, it easily slides out of the pot in one piece without the soil falling from the roots and damaging them.
Read more: How to grow bare root perennials
This method gives plants a gentle start, but it’s not essential and you can plant the bare roots directly into borders if you have good soil and if you mark them with a cane. Once planted, they’ll need sunlight and water, and it is necessary during their early stages of development to check on them regularly to make sure they look happy and healthy and that they are not becoming crowded by other plants or weeds.
Most herbaceous perennials can be supplied in bare root form, which means that you won’t have to be limited in your choices. Inspired by trends we see in famous and domestic gardens around us, also considering plants which will thrive in different kinds of soil, climates and spaces, we source a wide range of popular perennial varieties based on what we know people want to grow. Available to order during winter and spring, we have a huge range of perennials which we hope will inspire you! View our range of bare root perennials.
There are so many reasons why bare root perennials are a more environmentally-friendly choice than potted plants. For a start, they are mainly cultivated outdoors in fields which reduces the need for vast glasshouses, artificial light, heating and water—outdoors they get most of what they need to thrive naturally. Another plus is that their cultivation doesn’t usually require industrial quantities of plastic pots, which are tricky to recycle.
Nobody likes to see plants go to waste, and the good news is that there is very little waste involved with bare root perennials because they can be harvested when needed. Those which aren’t required simply spend another year in the field.
Once harvested, bare root perennials are compact, use less space in storage and also pack securely into smaller parcels than potted plants. You can fit many more bare root plants into a box than you can with potted plants—the smaller the parcels, the fewer delivery trucks we have on our roads which also lessens the carbon footprint.
Once planted and thriving in your garden, bare root perennials continue to improve the quality of our environment by providing pollinators with essential nectar. And, of course, as with all plants they absorb carbon dioxide in our atmosphere and convert it into oxygen by the natural process of photosynthesis.
When you are planting a new area with perennials, they will return each year and gradually fill out. But it can be a few years before they really start to provide a wow-factor. In the meantime, we recommend including some first-year flowering plants with your perennials, such as dahlias, begonias, callas and lilies. These will flower and make some impact in the first year while the new perennials are settling in.
Hardy perennials can be planted directly outside into borders, but we strongly recommend that they are marked with a cane after planting so that they’re easily monitored while they’re still small. While perennials are low maintenance once established, they do require some extra care when first planted.
Over the years, your perennials will start to spread into healthy clumps. Once they reach this point, you can think about dividing them in autumn. This process involves lifting the clump, splitting it in half or quarters with a spade, then replanting each clump straight away afterwards. The divided clumps can then be spread out into a wider group, or into different areas of the garden
Cottage garden perennials
Almost anything goes in a cottage garden—the charm of this style is that it is so relaxed in terms of colour (all colours welcome), form and habit. It’s a rustic jumble of plants that all seem to blend together into a rich floral tapestry. Plants like Achillea 'Summer Pastels', Geranium 'Breeders Mix' and Gypsophila 'Bristol Fairy' are all about the flower power and this melange of colour and flower shapes will work a treat.
Gravel/dry garden perennials
Sun-loving, drought tolerant plants like Verbena bonariensis, ornamental grasses, Eryngium and Gaura look fantastic in a gravel area. They enjoy the free-draining soil and cope well with summer heat. This is a great planting option for a low maintenance garden, or if you hope to save water during the summer months. Over the years they will spread and gradually naturalise.
Prairie-style perennials
This is a relaxed style of planting which mainly involves perennials in a full spectrum of colours. It works particularly well plants which flower in warm colours among informal grasses, like Panicum and Pennisetum. Helenium, Rudbeckia, Salvia and Echinacea are often used in prairie style planting schemes.
Perennials for modern gardens
If you have a formal, modern design you may prefer to stick to a simple colour scheme with green, white and only one or two other colours. Foliage plants like hostas (for shade) and ornamental grasses (for sun) will look stylish, and you could introduce some colour with flowering perennials which have a tidy habit like Veronica, Astrantia, Siberian Iris or Echinacea.
]]>The tulip can be traced as far back as the 16th century in Kazakhstan. They were found growing wild in the mountains during the Ottoman Empire (present day Turkey) where they were harvested and planted in the gardens of the most powerful people. Sultan Suleyman the First was so captured by their beauty, that he would gift them to his important guests and as a gesture of wealth. They also wore a tulip in their turbans—in fact, the Persian word for turban is tulipan.
It was during 1593 that Carolus Clusius, who at the time managed the gardens of the Emperor of Austria, was gifted some tulips by the Viennese ambassador. Clusius later became head of the Hortus Botanicus in Leiden and it was in this botanical garden that the first tulips were planted in the Netherlands! However, the tulips drew too much attention and one morning Clusius found the tulips had been stolen from the garden—and so began the Dutch trade in tulips!
Soon, tulip craze burst and the demand saw prices soar. People would pay as much for a single bulb as they would an Amsterdam canal house! By 1637, however, the bubble burst when the government ended the trade in tulips leaving many people very rich and many with nothing at all.
Today the tulip remains the most important flower in Dutch history—thankfully, we no longer need to sell our homes to own these incredible flowers. With over 150 species and thousands of hybrids, they fill almost half the bulb fields in the Netherlands and offer the most dazzling choice for gardeners to add that touch of Dutch history to their own gardens.
There are so many tulip varieties and choosing can feel a little overwhelming! You can focus on colour, flower shape, height, flowering period, or if you want them to come back each year.
Species and kaufmanniana tulips—also known as botanical tulips, these will flower year on year. These are most often smaller than their hybridised cousins however they are delicate and have an elegance all of their own. They will naturalise in your garden under the right conditions. The foliage is more varied than the hybrids and can often produce multiple blooms per stem.
On the other hand, there are hybrid tulips which are big, impressive and colourful. These tulips are usually replaced each season as they have tendency to run out of vigour after the first year and gradually the blooms will become smaller and less colourful.
Tulips are split into different groups depending on the flowering season and flower shape:
Group 1 — Single early tulips
Single flowers, cup shaped and among the first to flower, opening wide in full sun.
Group 2 — Double early tulips
Double flowered, usually short stems and early to flower. Great for cut flowers with heads up to 10cm wide, open wide in full sun and long lasting.
Group 3 — Triumph tulips
Single conical flowers, sturdy stems, mid-season. The result of hybridisation between single early and single late. Long lasting cut flower properties. Blooms up to 7cm wide.
Group 4 — Darwin hybrid tulips
Large single flowers on long strong stems, flowering in mid to late season (April/May). These have huge, goblet-like flowers up to 15cm across. Darwin tulips are perennial.
Group 5 — Single late tulips
Single-flowered cultivars, mainly long strong stemmed and flowering late spring, and very early summer, usually with pointed petals.
Group 6 — Lily-flowered tulips
Single narrow waisted flowers, flowering mid-season or late, strong stems with varying lengths.
Group 7 — Fringed tulips (Crispa tulips)
Single-flowered cultivars, similar to lily-flowering tulips but petals are fringed, flowering mid-season or late. Stem of variable length.
Group 8 — Viridifolia tulips
These are distinguished by the green streaks or markings on their petals and are normally late season.
Group 9 — Rembrandt tulips
Flowers are similar to group 6 but have flame marking on their petals caused by a non-spreading virus. Long-stemmed.
Group 10 — Parrot tulips
Flowers are large and variable with unusual fringed, curled and twisted petals. Mainly late season. Stems of variable length. These large flowers can also be bi-coloured.
Group 11 — Double late tulips or peony tulips
These have large, fully double bowl-shaped flowers up to 12cm wide.
Group 12 — Fosteriana tulips
Early-flowering variety with broad leaves which can be sometimes mottled or striped. Stems medium to long. These have slender flowers which open flat in full sun to approx. 18-20cm wide.
Group 13 — Species tulips or botanical tulips
Perennial diverse species of tulip, also known as botanical tulips. These are smaller and more delicate than modern hybrids, but are normally very hardy and long lived.
Group 14 — Kaufmanniana tulips
One of the most permanent tulip varieties. These have lily-like flowers which flatten out when open in full sun and can be bi-coloured and/or have striped or mottled leaves.
Group 15 — Greigii tulips
Usually marbled or striped foliage with a wavy edge, flowering later than those in the Kaufmanniana group. Near permanent variety, coming up year after year. These have large brightly coloured flowers.
The below illustration shows some of the different types and their flowering time, which is useful for planning a succession of tulips for your garden.
Planting tulips is really very easy. As a rule of thumb, they need to be planted in a hole approximately three times their height and approximately twice their width apart from each other, which is roughly 10-15cm.
— The best time to plant is during autumn, although tulips will be happy planted right up until mid-December provided the soil is not waterlogged or frozen. It is always best to ensure your bulbs are planted at the appropriate time. Planting later than December comes with a risk that the bulbs will be dehydrated or completely deteriorated.
— Tulips can be grown in borders and containers, most are often grown as annual bedding plants. Alternatively, botanical, kaufmannia and darwin hybrid tulips are perennials and will grow back every year. Botanical tulips can be naturalised in grass, offering perpetual interest during spring. Botanical tulips look great in meadows and gravel gardens as well as pots and borders.
— Tulips prefer a well-drained, fertile soil and will be happiest in sun and part shade. They all prefer not to be in overly wet conditions and like a sheltered spot in the garden. If you have a clay soil or particularly gravelly, incorporate some humus-rich organic matter to improve its consistency. Where the soil is very heavy clay, including some coarse grit or gravel will help with drainage around the bulb.
— It is important to make sure your bulbs are healthy when planting, so check for any damage, or signs of deterioration such as softening or developing moulds. Any that appear in poor health should be discarded.
Working out how many tulips you'll need depends on which type you have chosen and how you are planning to display them.
— If you are interplanting your tulips in borders with bedding or small bulbs, you can space them around 20cm apart from each other. If you are creating a solid blocks of colour or drifts in border, it is best to go by a spacing of around 10-15cm. Per square metre, we recommend planting 60 bulbs for a dense display.
— When planting tulips in pots, closer together is better. You can plant them as close as 5cm apart from each other to create a really showy, full container.
— If planting small botanical tulips, they will need to be planted at a spacing of around 5cm to create a dense display, whether they are in pots or a border. If you were planting a square metre of botanical tulips in a border, we recommend planting around 100 bulbs.
When growing your tulips in pots, be aware that they should not be left very wet in the compost over winter. If you notice this is the case, relocate your pot to a more sheltered position where the soil will have a chance to dry out a little and ensure the drainage hole is not blocked. The combination of the cold as well as the wet soil could cause your bulbs to rot.
— On the converse, once the weather begins to warm in spring, ensure your pots do not dry out as this may cause poor development and early withering of your beautiful blooms! Pots can dry out very quickly, but if growing the bulbs in the border they will not require additional watering unless it's extremely dry in spring.
— Bulbs can be fed to promote healthy growth and flowering, but it isn't usually necessary. If you have tulip bulbs saved from previous years, it may be beneficial to apply a tomato feed on a weekly basis once they are in growth and until the foliage begins to yellow and die back.
— Once your tulips have finished flowering, there are options as to what you should do with them. Hybrid tulips flower best in their first year and may or may not return reliably in the second year. It is recommended to remove these bulbs from your best pots after flowering, but they can be transferred immediately to a less significant part of the garden while the foliage dies back. This should be an informal space where they can do as they please, hopefully they'll provide a bonus splash of colour next year.
— It is believed that lifting tulip bulbs, drying them and storing them over summer then replanting them in autumn, increases their chances of returning in the following year. If you decide to try this, ensure that the flower is deadheaded before it forms a pod and the stem and foliage has turned yellow before it is removed and the bulbs are lifted—any green parts, especially the stem, are transferring energy to the bulb for next year. Also, you will need to expect that even when lifted and stored, some bulbs will not grow back the next year and some may not flower as extravagantly as they did in the first year.
— In the case of species/botanical, kaufmannia and darwin hybrid tulips, they are perennial and will return every year providing the leaves and stems are allowed to turn yellow or die back naturally. It's essential that any greenery is left intact so that the bulbs have enough energy to flower next year. These tulips prefer to stay planted all year round. Darwin and kaufmannia tulips should be deadheaded after flowering, cutting the stem just below the flower. If you want botanical tulips to naturalise, avoid deadheading and their flowers can set seed and spread.
Much like any other plant, tulips can be prone to pest and diseases. To avoid this from the outset, we only supply top-quality bulbs from reputable growers. They are regularly inspected for pests and diseases and sent to you at the appropriate time of year.
Natural deterioration of the bulbs — can occur rapidly from around mid December. Whilst Tulips are one bulb type that can tolerate a late planting window, we always recommend planting by mid December to give them the best opportunity to develop and flower to their best ability.
Tulip fire — occurs when the bulbs are planted too early in the autumn while the soil is still warm. This is why it is common practise to wait until late October before beginning to plant tulips. Tulip fire is a fungal disease caused by Botrytis tulipae which causes the foliage of the tulip to twist, wither and distort whilst also developing brown spots, the flowers may be empty or malformed. It is called Tulip Fire as it causes the foliage to appear scorched. Symptoms are apparent when the leaves emerge in spring and remain until dieback. Tulips showing signs of Tulip Fire should be entirely removed before they contaminate the soil for future years.
Squirrels — a perennial problem for many gardeners and not only relating to Tulips! The best way to protect your bulbs when in containers is to include a layer of chicken wire either on the top of the pot or a few inches beneath the soil – this allows for you to plant bedding over the top. This will create a challenge for the squirrels to negotiate and protect your precious bulbs. In open ground, plant the bulbs in aquatic baskets with chicken wire over the top and plant these at the appropriate depth – the same logic applies and these can be easily lifted once flowering has finished.
Failure to flower — this may be due to a lack of nutrients in the bulb, particularly where you are replanting for a second year but may also be due to shallow planting. Late planting may also affect the bulbs ability to develop and flower correctly.
]]>The radiant trumpet flowers of traditional varieties, such as Narcissus 'Dutch Master', may be the first to come to mind, but did you know that there are over 40 different species and thousands of cultivars and varieties? Daffodils, botanically known as Narcissus, come in a surprising range of colours—yellow, white, cream, there are even some featuring pink and apricot shades.
There are various flower shapes to choose from too. Some are fully double and packed with petals, others are traditional with a single ring of petals and a trumpet in the middle. There are many varieties which produce multiple blooms on one stem, and others with a single flower stem. Some varieties are dainty and small, whilst others are big and chunky.
Unlike many spring bulb types, narcissus varieties flower at different points during spring. There are early varieties, like Narcissus 'Tête à Tête' and Narcissus 'Jetfire', which make an enthusiastic start in February or March. There are varieties which bloom in mid-spring, joining in at the peak of spring flowering season. There are a few varieties, such as Narcissus 'New Baby', which start flowering in May—that's very late for a daffodil! Some narcissus varieties can be forced indoors and will flower in your home during winter, filling the room with fragrance.
The fact that daffodils of various types can be seen in flower throughout most of spring, perhaps is the reason that they are one of the best known and most widely recognised of all the spring flowers. If you pick a selection of different varieties, you can enjoy a successive display of daffodils from late winter right through to the end of spring!
Daffodils are perennial bulbs which means that they will keep growing back every year. The bulbs will multiply under the soil, forming established clumps over time. They can also be pollinated by insects and set seed, which will eventually grow into flowering bulbs too. With two ways of multiplying, they can naturalise freely and satisfyingly quickly.
Most narcissus species originate from Southern Europe and North Africa. Over the years, these wild daffodils have been cultivated and breeders in Europe have produced some exceptional new cultivars. There is also a British native daffodil, this is the wild Narcissus pseudonarcissus. This rare, wild British daffodil graces woodlands and meadows in parts of Gloucestershire.
Daffodils have been a popular plant to grow for centuries. This may be down to their undemanding nature, reliable spring colour and repeat show which just keeps getting better every year—there are virtually no downsides to growing them. These hardy, unfussy bulbs will happily pop up in most locations—in lawns, borders, containers, rockeries, woodland areas and even wind-battered coastlines.
With so many varieties available, you will often see them categorised botanically into 13 separate divisions. These divisions are based on their flowering characteristics, grouping similar types neatly together.
In botanical terms, the trumpet of the narcissus is referred to as the corona, while the outer petals are called tepals. Each division has their own characteristics. You don't need to know which division you are growing in order to get a great display from your Narcissus, but it is interesting to know.
Division 1 — Trumpet daffodils
One flower per stem, and each with a trumpet which is at least the same length as each tepal.
Division 2 — Large-cupped daffodils
One flower per stem, each with a corona that is more than one-third, but less than equal to the length of the tepals.
Division 3 — Small-cupped daffodils
One single flower per stem, each with a corona that measures one-third the length of the tepals, or less.
Division 4 — Double daffodils
One or more flowers per stem, with double tepals or a double corona, or both.
Division 5 — Triandrus narcissus
Two or more flowers per stem with reflexed tepals.
Division 6 — Cyclamineus narcissus
One single flower per stem, with reflexed tepals and a short neck holding the bloom at a steeply acute angle to the stem.
Division 7 — Jonquilla and apodanthus narcissus
Between one and five, or occasionally up to eight flowers per stem. Flowers are acutely angled to the stem with a corona that is cup, funnel or flared in shape, and usually wider than it is long. Tepals are spreading or reflexed and the blooms are usually fragrant.
Division 8 — Tazetta narcissus
Between three and twenty flowers per stem with spreading tepals. Stems are stout and blooms are usually fragrant.
Division 9 — Poeticus narcissus
Usually one flower per stem. Corona is very short or disc-shaped, usually with a green/yellow centre and red rim. Tepals are white and flowers are usually fragrant.
Division 10 — Narcissus bulbocodium
Normally a single flower per stem with tepals which are insignificant compared to corona, and with anthers which have a curved filament and style.
Division 11 — Split-corona daffodil
Corona is split, usually for more than half of its length.
Division 12 — Other daffodil cultivars
Daffodil cultivars which do not fit the definition of any other division.
Division 13 — Daffodils distinguished solely by botanical name
Wild (species) daffodils and hybrids without cultivar names (e.g. Narcissus pseudonarcissus)
Daffodils are supplied as dormant bulbs from September through to early December. They are best planted when you receive them and should certainly be planted by the end of the year as they will naturally begin to deteriorate after this time if they remain unplanted.
Check the condition of your daffodil bulbs when they arrive. They should feel firm with a dry, papery skin, and no soft or mushy areas. If you need to store them for a short while before planting, simply open the bags to improve ventilation and keep them in a cool, dry, airy and frost-free location. They can usually remain fresh in storage until around mid December, but planting sooner rather than later is preferred.
Narcissus aren't terribly fussy, but they will prefer a fertile and moist but well drained soil. Avoid soggy, waterlogged soils or very dry conditions. If your soil is clay and rather heavy, or particularly gritty, the addition of some well-rotted garden compost or manure will help to improve the soil texture. You can dig this into the soil before planting.
A few varieties, such as Narcissus 'Pheasant's Eye', can cope with shade, but the vast majority of Daffodils will prefer full sun, part shade or dappled shade.
Small daffodil varieties are a great choice for rockeries, small pots, edging beds and borders or planting in lawns. If you're planting daffodils in the lawn, it's a good idea to plant in neat clumps as this makes it easier to mow around them in spring. Alternatively, you can choose early flowering varieties, like Narcissus 'Tête à Tête' which have usually finished flowering by the time the lawn needs its first cut later in the spring. Taller varieties can be naturalised in longer grass, woven through borders among perennials, or grown in rows on the allotment for cut flowers.
All varieties can be planted in containers. Use miniature cultivars for window boxes, while taller varieties can be planted in larger containers alongside your favourite tulips or other spring-flowering bulbs to create a fabulous mixed pot combination. For indoor displays, choose varieties listed as suitable for indoor growing. Narcissus tazetta 'Paperwhite Ziva' is fast growing indoors and blooms in the middle of winter without the need for any cold period.
Plant Narcissus bulbs at a depth of roughly three times the height of the bulb. Always ensure that the pointed end faces upwards towards the soil surface. In borders or grass, the bulbs should be planted at a distance of roughly twice their width apart. This will give them space to naturalise in future years as the bulbs will gradually increase in numbers.
In containers you can plant daffodil bulbs closer to create a denser, more luxurious display. They can be transplanted into the garden in future years so they won't mind being a little crowded for one season. You can experiment with planting containers and borders with a range of Narcissus varieties which have different flowering periods to create a longer lasting display!
Daffodils are so lovely and unfussy that it's not usually too much of a problem if you order a few more than you'll need. Surplus bulbs can always be dotted around the garden in any space available.
How many you'll need depends on the size of the variety. Tall daffodil varieties tend to grow from large bulbs and can be planted in groups or drifts at a spacing of around 10-15cm in borders or through grass. Dwarf daffodil varieties grow from smaller bulbs and can be planted at a spacing of around 5-10cm apart from each other. In containers, all daffodil types can be packed in a little closer to avoid a sparse-looking pot. Allowing a spacing of 5cm apart in pots for both large and small varieties will look good in bloom the following spring. As daffodils multiply, they will appreciate being separated or planted out into the garden after 1-2 years if planted this close.
If you're planning on filling some large spaces in borders with daffodils, it is useful to know roughly how many you'll need per metre square. For large varieties, we recommend using around 60 bulbs per metre square, or around 75 bulbs for small varieties. This number of bulbs will create an impact in the first year, and allow space for the bulbs to multiply in future years.
You can enjoy the colour and perfume of narcissi in your home by forcing them into growth in winter. It's easy to do but requires a little planning ahead for some varieties.
Choose varieties which are suitable for indoors growing, such as Narcissus 'Grand Soleil d'Or', 'Avalanche', 'Erlicheer' or paperwhites.
Apart from the paperwhites (which need no cold treatment), the above varieties can be forced to flower early by potting them up in September and keeping them outdoors in a cool position first. They should have enough of a cold season by around mid-December, and at that point can be moved indoors. The temperature change will trigger them into early growth and they will flower indoors during winter.
Paperwhites, on the other hand, are ready to grow straight away. They can be planted indoors with no cold period and will start to grow fairly rapidly. It usually takes them between 4-8 weeks to reach a flowering stage.
You can plant the bulbs in a pot of compost or fill a cylindrical vase with gravel or pebbles. Push each bulb slightly into the surface of the compost and add some water. For vases, add just enough water so that the base of the bulb is at the waterline but not submerged. Position the pot or vase on a warm, bright windowsill and wait for the magic to begin!
For more information on forcing Narcissus tazetta 'Paperwhite Ziva' bulbs indoors, take a look at our helpful Planting Paperwhites video.
Daffodils are incredibly self-sufficient and don't demand much care at all. Once planted, they can be left in the soil to their own devices all year round. There are a few things which you can bear in mind:
Watering daffodils
Water lightly after planting to settle the soil around the bulbs. They won't require any water over winter.
Containers or pots are prone to drying out during a warm spring, therefore daffodils which are growing in containers may need a little watering during spring if the soil looks completely dried out. Daffodils growing in borders or lawns don't usually need watering during spring because the roots are able to reach moisture at deeper levels in the soil. There's no need to water after the foliage starts to turn yellow in late spring.
Feeding daffodils
Daffodils don't require feed in order to perform well. The bulb itself stores all the nutrients they need to produce good blooms. It is optional, but you can apply a feed in spring when the foliage begins to emerge. A general purpose or home-made comfrey feed will help to replenish the nutrients in the soil.
Deadheading daffodils
If you like to keep things tidy, deadheading faded flowers will make all the difference to your display. It also prevents the bulb from wasting valuable energy on producing unnecessary seedpods.
Simply snip off the faded flower and developing seedpod at the top of each stem. Leave the flower stems and leaves in place though, as these will still continue transfer energy to the bulb. If the stem and foliage is removed or tied into a knot while still green, your daffodils may come up blind (without flowers) next year.
Mowing around clumps in grass
Where bulbs have been naturalised in areas of grass, avoid mowing over the area until the foliage has completely died back—remember that this might not be until late May for later flowering varieties. For this reason, it’s often better to plant the bulbs in clumps throughout lawns rather than dotted randomly. This allows you to mow around the clumps to keep the lawn in check without disturbing the bulbs.
Dormancy, division and relocating daffodil bulbs
Daffodil bulbs become dormant once the leaves have turned yellow or died back. There's no need to lift, feed or water them whilst dormant. They can simply be left in the soil undisturbed throughout the year.
If you wish to relocate daffodil bulbs to free-up a container for summer, you can do so as soon as they have finished flowering. They can be transferred into a different part of the garden straight away, replanted with the leaves and stems intact and then allowed to die back in their new position. It is worth watering them after relocating when still green.
If you want to divide large clumps of bulbs then this should ideally be done once the foliage has turned yellow. You can also do it in autumn (if you had previously marked where your bulbs are!). Carefully lift the clump with a garden fork or spade, taking care not to damage the bulbs. Gently ease away the bulbs that you want to relocate and be sure to plant these as soon as possible. The remainder can be replanted in their original hole.
Narcissus are generally very reliable. If there are any issues, it is usually caused by their growing conditions.
Daffodil blindness
Foliage but no flowers is the most common problem. This is usually caused by the growing environment or removal of leaves and stems whilst still green. If it is caused by conditions, you can rectify the problem, although it may take a year or two before they bloom again,
In areas that are too shaded, simply move the bulbs to a sunny spot between May and October. Soils with poor fertility can be improved by applying a mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost to improve soil condition and provide much needed nutrients. This can be done in the autumn or early spring before they begin to grow.
Congested, overcrowded bulbs can also suffer daffodil blindness. Divide your bulbs and replant them to give them some extra space.
Planting depth can also affect flowering so it's worth checking that they are planted at the correct depth of roughly 2-3 times the height of the bulb. Lift bulbs in late spring or autumn and amend this if necessary.
Narcissus bulb fly
This pest can be hard to diagnose as the symptoms are similar to daffodil blindness and rotting. However, if you discover the presence of small white maggots within the bulbs themselves then this is likely to be narcissus bulb fly. The larvae eat away the centre of otherwise healthy bulbs leaving behind a mushy brown mess.
Our bulbs are regularly inspected for pests and diseases by the Dutch and British plant health authorities, which avoids that risk.
No show of bulbs—rotting
Narcissus can tolerate short periods of wet soil, but if these conditions persist then fungal infections such as basal rot can set in, turning the bulb to mush. Avoid planting in soils which are prone to waterlogging, and always ensure that containers have drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. Be particularly mindful of this when growing bulbs in vases and pots indoors. The bulbs should sit just above the water line and never directly in water.
Narcissus bulbs emerging early
It is normal for many daffodil varieties to start growing shoots in December. With some varieties flowering as early as February, this is just the start of their growth cycle and they will flower in spring as expected. Don't worry about frost or snow damaging the shoots, narcissi are typically fully hardy to around -20°C.
]]>There are very few plant types which will flower for months on end—most plant varieties tend to have a flowering time which lasts between 2-8 weeks. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a selection of plants with different flowering times, along with plenty of plants with long flowering times, and this will carry the season of colour through so you don't run out of garden interest. It's a familiar learning curve for many budding horticulturists, who discover that a plant will look fabulous when flowers, then start to fade perhaps sooner than expected leaving a sad looking space if there is nothing nearby to take over the show.
Planning for plants which pick up the slack at the time their neighbouring plants are likely to fade, often referred to as a successive planting scheme, it key to achieving the effortlessly long-flowering garden goals which we all strive to achieve.
There can be quite a lot to juggle when planning a planting scheme—what colours look good together, plant heights, soil and aspect preferences for instance. Creating a successive display is thinking about all of that, whilst bearing in mind when the plants will flower. Choosing a plant purely based on flowering time may lead you to choose a variety that you wouldn't usually be drawn to based on looks. But usually you'll find that looking at the bigger picture and introducing such plants helps to bring the whole thing together into one seamless, successive-flowering masterpiece!
On our website, you can select flowering months in the search filter to help you choose plants which will flower at the right time. Of course, flowering time is approximate because it does depend on the climate, and also the weather, but using these filters certainly helps to point you in the right direction.
Establishing a colourful garden with interest for every season takes time and can't all be done and dusted in one big planting marathon. Due to the different growth cycles and harvest times of flower bulbs and plants, which means they have seasonal planting times, it is something you will need to add to over the course of a year, then top up in future years as inevitable gaps do occur.
Because plants are available at seasonally appropriate times, it is necessary to order flower bulbs and bare-root perennials in two separate seasons. At Farmer Gracy, you can buy plants which flower from winter to late spring in autumn (from our autumn range), and plants which flower from summer to autumn in spring (from our summer range).
Here's a quick overview which shows the two seasonal ranges—their flowering time, shipping time, planting time and when they're available to order:
Spring-flowering bulbs → Shop here
Order in |
Shipped |
Planting time |
Flowers |
May — Dec | Aug — Dec | Aug — Dec | Autumn Winter Spring |
Summer bulbs & plants → Shop here
Order in |
Shipped |
Planting time |
Flowers |
Dec — May | Feb — May | Feb — May | Spring Summer Autumn |
Our shipping seasons are timed correctly for planting. Plants and bulbs from our summer range are shipped between late February and May, varieties from our autumn range are shipped between late August and December. It is between these months that the varieties you have ordered should be planted for optimum, reliable results.
Gardens take time to establish, but with the right choice of plants, new planting schemes can produce a great display in the first year, and also get better and better in future years. Over the years, most plants will grow back larger and bushier, looking more natural and effortless each time.
When planting up a new space, it's best to include a selection of hardy perennial bare roots and bulbs, along with an equal proportion of high-impact, first-year flowering plants. By including first-year flowering plants, your planting efforts will be rewarded much sooner. This also takes the pressure off the hardy perennials which will need time to settle in before they create a big show.
If you filter your search on our website for hardy perennials, you will find a fantastic selection of bulbs and plants which will grow back every year without the need for frost protection. They are low maintenance, and each year they will grow back in a larger clump with more vigour and more flowers. Hardy perennials are excellent value plants which you can enjoy year after year. It is worth including lots of them in a new planting scheme, but do remember that they typically take a couple of years before they will start to fill out and flower well.
Plan for this time when new hardy perennials getting established in the garden, and in the meantime allow some space for first-year flowering plants like dahlias, begonias, callas, lilies, gladiolus, ranunculus and anemones. Most of these varieties will also grow back each year with the right care over winter, but unlike hardy perennials, they put a lot of effort into flowering in the first year and will get your new summer planting scheme off to a colourful, rewarding start.
With regards to spring flowering bulbs, fortunately most varieties will flower beautifully in the first year. It is mainly the summer-flowering bulbs and plants which vary more widely in how much time they take to establish.
A huge part of planting a successful planting scheme is choosing varieties which will thrive in the conditions you have. For example, plants which enjoy shade are best grown in shade, whereas those which prefer to grow in full sun will sulk in a shady position and may eventually fail or produce straggly, sparse growth. Most plant types will grow in a space which offers full sun/partial shade, which means sun for part of the day, or lightly dappled shade.
Soil type also plays a part in plant choices. Certain plants can cope with a clay soil, whereas others may simply start to rot or struggle to establish. Areas in full sun with a light, dry soil may be tricky for some plants to cope with, but others will do very well in such a location.
You can filter your search on our website for soil type and aspect (sun/shade). For example, you can select Full Sun and Clay in the search filter and a range of suitable plants will be displayed for you to choose from.
When you're planning your planting scheme, ensure your plants are spaced so that colour is dispersed evenly throughout the season. Try to plan what plants will be in flower and when, ensuring that your combinations are flowering simultaneously, filling the gaps in between where earlier flowering plants have faded.
It isn’t the end of the world if you notice that something doesn't look right where it was originally planted. Usually, plants can be carefully dug up and relocated whilst dormant if this is the case.
Below, you will find plant suggestions which will provide interest for every month of the year. You may notice that some are listed in multiple months, such as dahlias and begonias—this means that they have a long flowering time and typically will be flowering during most of that time in favourable conditions (it is definitely worth including some of those in your planting scheme!)
January
— Eranthis hyemalis
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, woodland areas, borders or through rough grass.
— Iris reticulata
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries, gravel gardens or window boxes.
— Hippeastrum (amaryllis)
Plant in autumn, grow indoors.
— Paperwhites
Plant in autumn, grow indoors.
February
— Eranthis hyemalis
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, woodland areas, borders or through rough grass.
— Iris reticulata
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries, gravel gardens or window boxes.
— Hippeastrum (amaryllis)
Plant in autumn, grow indoors.
— Crocus
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries or through rough grass.
— Narcissus (early)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, lawns or through rough grass.
March
— Crocus
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries or rough grass.
— Hyacinth
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Muscari
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders or through rough grass.
— Fritillaria
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots and borders. Small, wild types can be grown in rough grass.
— Tulipa (early)
Typically botanical tulips. Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Narcissus (mid)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, lawns or through rough grass.
— Scilla
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, gravel gardens or through rough grass.
— Chionodoxa
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, gravel gardens or through rough grass.
April
— Tulipa (mid)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders and gravel gardens.
— Narcissus (late)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots and borders or through rough grass.
— Anemone (autumn planted)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders and through rough grass.
— Ranunculus (autumn planted)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Brunnera
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Hyacintoides (bluebells)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, woodland areas, borders or through rough grass
— Fritillaria persica and Fritillaria imperialis
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Leucojum
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots or borders
May
— Tulipa (late)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Allium (early)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, meadows and gravel gardens.
— Paeonia
Plant in autumn or spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Convallaria
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Dicentra
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Brunnera
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Eremurus
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in borders or gravel gardens.
— Camassia
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in large pots, borders or meadows.
— Iris × hollandica (Dutch iris)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in large pots, borders or gravel gardens
— Iris germanica (Bearded iris)
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Gladiolus byzantinus
Plant in autumn or spring, grow outdoors in borders or rough grass areas.
— Geranium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
June
— Allium (mid)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, meadows and gravel gardens.
— Paeonia
Plant in autumn or spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Lilium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders
— Caladium
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Geum
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Geranium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Papaver (oriental poppy)
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Gladiolus
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders.
July
— Allium (late)
Plant in autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, meadows and gravel gardens.
— Anemone (spring planted)
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots, borders and through rough grass.
— Ranunculus (spring planted)
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Lilium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders.
— Dahlia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders.
— Calla
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Begonia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Gladiolus
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders.
— Caladium
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Canna
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders.
— Geranium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots and borders.
— Colocasia
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Crocosmia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Gypsophila
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Salvia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
August
— Dahlia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Begonia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Gladiolus
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders.
— Calla
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Caladium
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Agapanthus
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders
— Canna
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots and borders
— Colocasia
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Crocosmia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Amaryllis belladonna
Plant in spring or autumn, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Perovskia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders.
— Persicaria
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders.
— Gypsophila
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Delphinium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders.
— Cosmos
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders or rough grass areas.
— Salvia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
September
— Dahlia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Begonia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Calla
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Rudbeckia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Echinacea
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Caladium
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Canna
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Colocasia
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Acidanthera
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Bessera
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Polianthes
Plant in spring, grow indoors, then transfer outdoors during summer to pots or borders.
— Persicaria
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Japanese Anemone
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders.
— Sedum
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Cosmos
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in borders or through rough grass.
— Hedychium
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Salvia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
October
— Dahlia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Begonia
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
— Crocus speciosus
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries or through rough grass.
— Crocus sativus
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries and gravel gardens.
— Colchicum
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders or woodland areas.
— Nerine
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Amarine
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Sedum
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in large pots or borders.
— Schizostylis
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots or borders.
November
— Nerine
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Amarine
Plant in spring, grow outdoors in pots, borders or gravel gardens.
— Crocus speciosus
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries or through rough grass.
— Crocus sativus
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries and gravel gardens.
— Oxalis versicolor
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries and gravel gardens.
December
— Hippeastrum (amaryllis)
Plant in autumn, grow indoors.
— Paperwhites
Plant in autumn, grow indoors.
— Oxalis versicolor
Plant in early autumn, grow outdoors in pots, borders, rockeries and gravel gardens.
January |
Eranthis hyemalis, Iris reticulata, Hippeastrum, Paperwhites |
February |
Eranthis hyemalis, Iris reticulata, Hippeastrum, Crocus, Narcissus |
March |
Crocus, Hyacinth, Muscari, Fritillaria, Tulipa, Narcissus, Scilla, Chionodoxa |
April |
Tulipa, Narcissus, Anemone, Ranunculus, Brunnera, Hyacinthoides, Fritillaria persica, Leucojum |
May |
Tulips, Allium, Paeonia, Convallaria, Dicentra, Brunnera, Eremurus, Camassia, Iris × hollandica, Iris germanica, Gladiolus byzantinus, Geranium |
June |
Allium, Paeonia, Lilium, Caladium, Geum, Geranium, Papaver, Gladiolus |
July |
Allium, Anemone, Ranunculus, Lilium, Dahlia, Calla, Begonia, Gladiolus, Caladium, Canna, Geranium, Colocasia, Crocosmia, Gypsophila, Salvia |
August |
Dahlia, Begonia, Gladiolus, Calla, Caladium, Agapanthus, Canna, Colocasia, Crocosmia, Amaryllis belladonna, Perovskia, Persicaria, Gypsophila, Delphinium, Cosmos, Salvia |
September |
Dahlia, Begonia, Calla, Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Caladium, Canna, Colocasia, Acidanthera, Bessera, Polianthes, Persicaria, Japanese Anemone, Sedum, Cosmos, Hedychium, Salvia |
October |
Dahlia, Begonia, Crocus speciosus, Crocus sativus, Colchicum, Nerine, Amarine, Sedum, Schizostylis |
November |
Nerine, Amarine, Crocus speciosus, Crocus sativus, Oxalis versicolor |
December |
Hippeastrum, Paperwhites, Oxalis versicolor |
There are several things you can consider when buying your bulbs and plants online. Below are some expert tips to help you navigate the selection and buying process.
We have a wide and comprehensive variety of bulbs and perennials available to order throughout the year. You can browse our full range anytime on our website. If you are looking for something in particular, perhaps scented, tall, small or rare and unusual, you can look for it in the following ways.
— Narrow your search: Whether you're looking for something of a particular colour or flowering time, or for a specific planting space. You can use the filters on the website to make it easy to find the right plant. Select the options which apply to the conditions or plant characteristics you are looking for and a choice of appropriate plants will appear. Find tips on using the search filters are below in the section 'Filtering your search'.
— Browse through the categories: Perhaps you know you'd like a Dahlia or some crocuses. You can view the full range of each plant type within its category page. Every plant type has a category of its own. For example, the Crocus category will display all the Crocus varieties so you can see them all in one place. You can find all of the categories within the top navigation bar on our website under the 'Spring-flowering bulbs' or 'Summer bulbs & plants' heading. If you are using a tablet or phone, this may appear as three lines at the top of the page and the categories are listed below.
— Use the search box: Perhaps you know the specific bulb you would like to purchase and want to find it directly. You can simply type the name into the search box. You can also use the search box to look up categories, for example, type in 'tulip' and then select the 'tulip bulbs' option which appears below. The search box is located at the top of the website.
— Browse across the entire range: Ideal if you are browsing for anything to plant in the current season and don't have anything specific in mind. Click on the main category 'Summer bulbs & plants' or 'Spring-flowering bulbs' and there you can browse the full, seasonal range.
Narrow your search to find exactly what you are looking for by using the filter options. You may be after something of a certain colour, height, or with a specific flowering time. Or, you may need to find varieties which are well-suited to a certain soil type or aspect. Selecting one or multiple filters will show a selection of well-suited or recommended varieties. Filters include:
— Genus
— Established height
— Sunlight (e.g. shade, sun)
— Flowering time
— Suitable for (e.g. pots, borders, wildlife gardens)
— Life cycle (e.g. annual, perennial)
— Habit (e.g. clump forming, spreading)
— Soil type (e.g. clay, sand, loam, stony)
— Soil moisture
— Leaf colour
— Weather exposure
— Years to establish
— Established spread
— Soil pH
Choose from the full range:
— From the homepage, click 'Shop all' under the seasonal heading 'Spring bulbs' or 'Summer bulbs'. If you are using a desktop, once you have clicked on this link you will land on a page which displays everything in the range and the filter options are on the left hand side. If you are on a tablet or phone, the filter options can be used by clicking the filter button.
— Click on the + next to each filter to open the options. As an example, if you are looking for varieties suitable for a clay soil, open the 'Soil type' filter options and select 'clay'. You can narrow it down further if needed by selecting a genus, height, flowering time, colour or other feature. E.g. if you select 'clay' from 'Soil type' and 'May' from 'Flowering time', you will be shown all varieties which flower in May and that can tolerate clay soil.
— To change your search, ensure you remove the previously selected filters by clicking on the X next to each selected filter option.
Choose from a category:
— If you're looking specifically for tulips or dahlias, for example, select the relevant category from the drop-down menu under the 'Spring-flowering bulbs' or 'Summer-flowering bulbs' heading on the homepage. Once you have clicked on the plant type or sub-category, you can view the full range of varieties within that category.
— You can use the filter options within the category to view a selection of varieties specifically by colour, flowering time, suitable growing places or height, as well as other attributes and features.
Shop by feature:
— You can browse by feature to help you find plants which are good for a specific use or have certain characteristics. Use this to view varieties which attract pollinators, are great as cut flowers, packed in paper, perennials, or drought tolerant. These are just some of the special features – you'll find lots more when you hover the cursor over the 'Shop by feature' link, which is located on the top navigation of the website.
— Once you have clicked on the feature you are interested in, for example, 'fragrant', you will land on a page which shows only varieties with fragrance. You can then use the filter options to narrow that down if you're after something specific, such as Narcissus from the 'Genus' filter, or colour for instance.
If you fancy trying something new or especially fancy, click on 'New this season' or 'Deluxe' from the top navigation. These categories include a mixture of different varieties, so using the 'Genus' filter to pick out only the Alliums, Irises or Tulips, for example, will help you find those exciting new additions without scrolling through everything else in the category. You could also filter by colour, flowering time or soil type if you have a particular spot you'd like to fill with something new and unusual.
You will see on each individual plant profile that you can order bulbs in different pack sizes. Larger pack sizes come with an extra discount. Click 'add to basket' when you've made your choice and either continue shopping or proceed to checkout by clicking on the basket symbol.
At the first stage of checkout, you can check the items in your order, enter an offer code if you have one, and enter your delivery details. Always check that the delivery details are full and correct, even if they have been automatically filled for you. Errors with addresses or post codes will cause delays to your delivery. Enter a phone number if possible, in case the courier needs to contact you to arrange delivery.
At checkout, you can also choose an express checkout option like Paypal or ShopPay for a speedy payment process, or you can proceed to the second stage of checkout where you can enter your card and billing details.
If you subscribe to the Farmer Gracy email newsletter, or follow us on social media, you will be kept up to date of all our promotions and special offers. If you have a valid offer code, this can be applied at the first stage of checkout to claim your discount. If you are not subscribed to our newsletter but would like to be, simply enter your email address in the subscribe section on our website.
Delivery charges do apply. The delivery charge will be the same whether you order one item or several. Orders over a certain amount qualify for free shipping – you can find out about delivery charges to your country via the links below:
— UK, Northern Ireland & islands shipping costs
— EU shipping costs
Ordering online is quick, easy and secure and can be done at any time. For those who prefer to order over the phone, please call us during office hours on 0330 808 7304 — leave us a message and we'll call you back as soon as possible to take your order. We're also happy to advise on plant choices, discuss the range in case you do not have access to the internet, and answer any questions you have.
If you already have an order which is waiting to ship, you can add items to your order to save you placing a new order and paying another postage charge. Simply contact us at customercare@farmergracy.com and we can organise that for you. As all available bulbs are shipped during the same planting season, all items in your order will be sent together.
At Farmer Gracy, we have two shipping seasons: spring and autumn. Between late February and May we ship summer-flowering bulbs and plants. Between late August and December, we ship spring flowering (autumn planting) bulbs. It is during these shipping months that the bulbs should be planted. Between shipping seasons, new season bulbs and plants are available to preorder for the season ahead.
When you place an order for multiple items, they will all be part of either the spring or autumn range and will be shipped together at the same time. When you are placing your order, look out for the estimated shipping time provided on each product page. You will also be provided with an estimated time of dispatch on your order confirmation email which is sent once you have placed the order.
Whether you are based in the UK or in an EU country, there are no import or customs duties for customers to pay to receive their parcels from us.
Once you have placed your order, you will immediately be sent an order confirmation email, which includes your order number, a list of the items ordered, estimated dispatch time and your delivery details. If you don't receive a confirmation email, please check in your spam folder. Adding Farmer Gracy to your 'safe senders list' or moving any communications from your spam folder into your inbox will help to ensure future correspondence arrives to your inbox.
When your order has been packed and shipped, you will be sent a shipping confirmation email which includes your tracking link. Typically, orders take 3-8 working days to arrive from that point. You can click on the tracking link to follow the progress of your delivery. If you notice any delays or problems on your tracking, please contact us as soon as possible and we will get it sorted for you. While your parcel is on its way to the delivery country, it is normal for there to be a few days with no updates on the tracking.
Our bulbs are checked regularly by the Dutch and British plant health authorities which prevents harmful pests and diseases from entering your garden. Whilst bulbs can start to naturally deteriorate (become soft, mouldy or dry out) towards the end of the season, this is extremely unlikely to be caused by pests or disease.
Occasionally, particularly towards the end of the shipping season, a variety which was in stock at time of ordering may become out of stock. We will only be happy to send bulbs which are in good condition and which will thrive, therefore our stock is subject to regular checks. If we find that remaining bulbs of a particular variety are starting to deteriorate, we will not send them to you. Instead, we refund that item and send the remaining part of the order without delay.
When your order arrives, open the box as soon as possible. If you aren't planting your bulbs immediately, you should also open up the individual bulb packets and leave them open so air can circulate the bulbs. This helps prevent condensation building up and mould forming.
We recommend always planting bulbs and plants as soon as possible while still fresh. We ship at the correct time for planting, but plants can often stay fresh if stored in a cool, dry ventilated place for a few weeks until ready to plant. Packets should be left open during this storage time. All bulbs and plants should be planted by the end of the season that they are supplied in – this would be mid-December for autumn-planting bulbs and late May for spring-planting varieties. Some plant and bulb types stay fresh for longer than others, so always keep an eye on all bulbs and plants in storage and ensure they are planted before they start to dry out or deteriorate.
When you're planting, you can pre-soak bare root plants to rehydrate them. Some bulbs require a pre-soak too, we advise reading our planting instructions for each variety in our online planting instructions page.
We want to help you get the best out of your bulbs and ensure you enjoy a great display. Whether you need plant advice, there is an issue with your delivery or something isn't as expected, our team of horticulturists are happy to help with any concern. You can contact us by email or phone.
— Plan ahead and order early! Getting your preorder in early means you benefit from maximum choice. Placing a preorder reserves those varieties for you. Leaving it until later means that some of the most popular varieties may have sold out.
— Bulb size: We are proud to stock the largest bulbs sizes available. The more mature a bulb is, the better it performs. Bulb measurements vary from season to season, but it is the maturity of the bulb which matters and ours are always supplied at their optimum maturity. Bulbs have been through years of growth before they are large enough to be sold as flowering bulbs. The more seasons that a bulb has been cultivated, the larger it will usually be.
— Quantity: Order the correct number of bulbs to create the impact you desire or to fill a specific space in your garden. An approximate number of bulbs required per metre square is provided on each of our product pages to help you to work out how many you'll need.
— Stretch the season: Plants and bulbs don't usually flower throughout an entire season, they will flower for part of it. Look to order bulbs and perennials that flower at different times during the season. Doing this means that you will maintain a good level of interest in your garden from the beginning to the end of the season.
— Explore new varieties – something new may feel daunting but its good to try new things. Horticulture is a constant learning curve, there are just so many plants and so much to know about each one. Learn something new as you explore different varieties. It's interesting, challenging and you may be surprised at what you can achieve!
— Don't overlook the small varieties – focus on the finer details of the garden, small bulbs can be just as exciting and showy as big plants. They look great planted in window boxes or containers that can be enjoyed at eye level. You can also use them to fill the little spaces in the garden, or to underplant larger varieties.
— Also, don't overlook the tall varieties! If you have a small garden, filling it with small plants can make it look flat, with everything at ground level. Tall plants like cannas, dahlias and alliums are tall and narrow, meaning they can fit into a small space without taking over. When tall plants are packed in together to a small space, it looks truly magical.
— Pre-mixed varieties/collections: if you struggle to choose or are unsure about how to choose bulbs that will look great together, we have put together a fantastic range of collections for you. All of our collections are put together with plant heights, colours and flowering times in mind, so you can enjoy an effortlessly harmonious display.
]]>Take a browse through our range and you'll soon discover that there are bulbs for every season, and almost any position in the garden, there are also some exotic treasures which can be grown indoors.
Most bulbs are low maintenance and easy to grow. There are some more challenging types too—perfect for anyone who likes to put their green fingers to the test and grow something rare or unusual. Whether you're planting borders, filling containers, creating natural looking meadows and woodlands, or starting an indoor jungle, there are no limits to using bulbs and you can let your imagination run wild!
The word "bulb" is often used as an umbrella term for bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes, which make up a diverse range of plants. Although they are different, they have the same function of storing energy and food for the plant. When the growing conditions are right, the "bulb" (rhizome, bulb, tuber or corm) will supply the energy needed for the roots, foliage and flowers to regrow.
Bulbs — True bulbs are familiar to most gardeners. They will be rounded in shape with a flatter base and a pointed tip. Some will have a papery outer layer, but not all of them. They are formed by layers of scales, just like an onion. Some of the easiest to recognise bulbs include narcissus, tulips, lilies, alliums and hyacinths.
Corms — These often look similar to bulbs, but if you were to cut one open, you would discover that it is a solid mass rather than having separate scales. They also have a flatter bottom and one or more buds at the top. Examples include crocosmia, crocus, gladiolus, and freesias.
Tubers — These are swollen underground stems or roots which store nutrients for the next season's growth. Examples of plants which grow from tubers include dahlias, caladiums, ranunculus, anemones, and begonias. They generally have multiple growth points called buds or eyes, from which new growth will emerge.
Rhizomes — These swollen underground stems often grow horizontally in the soil. They are generally planted quite close to the surface of the soil or even with their rhizomes sitting at ground level like bearded iris. Familiar types include Lily of the valley, hedychiums, and cannas.
Bulbs will have been through many growing seasons before they are a good size for supplying to gardeners as flowering bulbs. In many cases, the process includes planting immature bulbs in fields, lifting them after the growing season, removing any bulblets, replanting those and the mother bulbs, lifting them again after the next growing season, then repeating the process again and again for as many years as necessary.
This is why bulbs should never miss their planting time or be stored for too long, because they need to have this yearly growth cycle. Bulbs grow larger every year—the top-size bulbs we supply will have been through this laborious process more times than the smaller, cheaper bulbs. The larger the bulbs have grown, the better they bloom.
It is true that the bigger the bulbs, the better they perform. This is because bulbs grow bigger as they mature. It is in fact the maturity of the bulb which determines its performance. Bulbs within their size categories can vary in measurement slightly, but will be the same maturity and have the same vigour even when some bulbs in a batch are slightly bigger than others.
On our website, we show the size so you know roughly how big the bulbs are that you will receive. Industry bulb sizing differs depending on variety. Some, like colocasias and dahlias, are sized in groups, such as size 1 (being the largest available), size 2, size 3 and so on. Other varieties tend to be an approximate measurement, and this is usually a measurement in centimetres around the circumference of the widest part of the bulb. Bulb farmers and suppliers don't measure each individual bulb because this would take far too long. Instead, the bulbs are sorted into categories based on approximate size and maturity.
Among our range of ranunculus, for example, you may notice that the standard colours (Ranunculus 'White', 'Red', 'Pink' etc) are listed as size 7/+. This means on average they are approximately 7cm or more in circumference. The Italian ranunculus varieties are listed as size 2/3, this is approximately 2-3cm in circumference, which is a typical size for those varieties.
Bulbs are usually planted when they are dormant so it's important to plan for the growing season ahead, and to plant them at the correct time of year. Unlike seeds, which have never been in growth and can store for years, all bulb types must be planted in the same season they are supplied. They can't be stored until the following year as they will simply deteriorate.
You can buy bulb varieties as potted plants at their flowering time, but this is a less rewarding way to enjoy bulbs. Buying ready-grown bulbs means they will provide instant impact, but this is more costly and their flowering is usually short-lived.
There are two planting seasons for bulbs:
— Summer flowering plants like lilies, dahlias, cannas, begonias and callas are supplied between late February and May for spring planting. Depending on their hardiness, they can all either be planted directly outdoors or started indoors between late February and late May. The earlier in spring you can get them started, the more advanced and ready for flowering they will be in summer.
— Tender and half-hardy varieties will need to be started in frost-free conditions, such as a greenhouse or conservatory. This protects them from cold weather in early spring. Tropical varieties like caladiums and colocasias require warm conditions to sprout, so they would prefer to be in the warmth of your home to start with.
— Spring flowering varieties, such as bluebells, daffodils, tulips and crocus are supplied between late August and December should be planted in autumn between September and mid December.
— Some varieties do have preferences over when in autumn they are planted. For example, tulips are best planted in November or December when the soil is cold, which avoids the risk of tulip fire. Autumn-flowering varieties (also supplied in autumn), such as Crocus sativus and colchicums, need to be planted as soon as possible, ideally by early October.
— Anemones and ranunculus can be planted either in autumn or spring, but they should always be planted in the same season that you receive them while fresh. When planting anemones or ranunculus in autumn, they will flower in spring. If they're planted in spring, they will flower in summer.
A few species (including bluebells, snowdrops and winter aconites) can also be transplanted after they flowered, while the foliage is still present. These are referred to as bulbs "in the green". Some gardeners believe that these will establish quicker than dormant bulbs, but in truth the main advantage is that these particular species can be planted in spring as well as autumn, giving gardeners a second opportunity to plant them each year. When good quality, large-sized dormant bulbs are supplied, they should establish at the same rate as bulbs in the green.
Bulbs are supplied while they are dormant, making them easy to plant. We will always supply your fresh flower bulbs at the correct planting time, and it is important that they are planted within the same season that they are supplied, ideally as soon as possible.
On arrival, open the packaging straight away to allow fresh air to the bulbs. They should not be left in boxes in unopened packaging for long as this reduces fresh airflow and mould can form. Your bulbs should be firm and healthy with no soft or mushy areas. Towards the end of the planting season, some bulbs will already have started to produce shoots before they have been planted. This isn't a problem—simply plant them the usual way as soon as possible and they will continue to grow normally.
Bulbs are best be planted as soon as they arrive while they are still fresh, but sometimes this just isn't possible. They can survive a few weeks in storage if necessary, although if you have received them towards the end of the planting season, they may not store well and should be planted as soon as possible. Bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes can't be stored until the following year and will deteriorate if left unplanted beyond their planting time.
If you need to store your bulbs for a few weeks, you will need to open up their paper packaging first. You can leave the bulbs in their opened packets and place them in a cool, dry, frost free and well-ventilated position. Be sure to prevent access by mice and other rodents that may enjoy nibbling them! A garage, shed, loft or cupboard often makes the ideal location.
Always keep an eye on your bulbs in storage. If you notice some are starting to turn soft, it's best to get them planted straight away before they all deteriorate.
There are bulb varieties to suit most locations, from free draining rockeries to damp woodlands, and grassy meadows to flower beds and patio pots. Choosing the right bulb for the growing conditions available will really pay off. Always check the recommended growing conditions for your bulbs as this will have a big impact on their success.
Most bulbs enjoy a sunny or partially shaded spot in moist but free-draining soil. If you're looking for plants to fill a specific area, such as a shady garden or an area with clay soil, suitable varieties can be filtered on our website. Using our website search filters will help you to make the right plant choices, which should in turn lead to plant success!
Half-hardy and tender plants will need frost-free growing conditions. You can plant them in pots and start them in a conservatory or greenhouse to plant out from May onwards. Alternatively, you can plant them directly outside from late April/early May once risk of frost has passed. Topical plants will need additional warmth to get started, so starting those in your home, heated greenhouse or warm conservatory is best.
Bulbs can be planted in large swathes, blocks, groups or simply dotted around individually. It's necessary to ensure your planting area is prepared for bulbs. It may need to be dug over if it is compacted, and weeds removed first. If the soil is in poor condition, it's worth digging in some compost or mulch prior to planting. Before planting a big display is the ideal opportunity to dig in plenty of organic matter such as leaf mould, well-rotted manure or garden compost if needed.
Gracy says:
"Organic matter is great for breaking up a heavy clay soil and improving drainage. It works well to benefit a light, sandy soil, where it will retain moisture and replenish nutrients that are easily leached from thin soils."
For a mass planting of bulbs for a dramatic show throughout large beds then you can dig out a wide trench at the correct planting depth across the entire planting area. Space your bulbs exactly where you would like them, then simply backfill the soil over them. This will save a lot of time compared with digging individual planting holes!
When planting at wider spacings, will need to dig individual planting holes with a trowel or bulb planter. Bulb planters are particularly useful when dotting bulbs though areas of grass, which can be tough to dig with a trowel. When planting groups of bulbs in grass, you can use a spade to dig out a square. You can lift the square, position the bulbs in the hole and then put the square of soil and grass back on top.
If you are planting bulbs in containers, choose a good quality, free draining multipurpose or John Innes Number 2 compost, unless otherwise specified in the growing instructions. You can plant multiple varieties in the same pot, which is often referred to as a "bulb lasagne".
Alternatively, you can also keep it simple and stick to one variety per pot. If planting multiple varieties in one pot, ensure they are all suitable for the same growing conditions. For example, a pot containing both shade-loving lily of the valley and sun-loving dahlias would not work.
It always advisable to check the recommended planting depth for each variety in the planting instructions. Incorrect planting depth can result in failure to flower and may reduce the lifespan of your bulbs. Most bulbs and corms should be planted at a depth of roughly 2-3 times their own height, however there are of course exceptions to this rule.
Tubers and rhizomes vary greatly in their planting depths. Some should be planted shallowly at the soil surface while others need to be much deeper. Planting depth varies depending on specific variety, bulb size and conditions. You can find the correct planting depth for all varieties on our online planting instructions page.
Aftercare depends very much on the type of bulb. Hardy perennial types can be left in the soil all year round, whereas tender bulbs need to be lifted and stored over winter in frost free conditions.
When planted in the correct location, most bulbs are reasonably low maintenance through the growing season and need minimal care aside from watering, to grow successfully and produce flowers.
All bulbs appreciate some water as soon as they have been planted, this settles the soil around them. It isn't essential if planting in autumn when the soil is already moist. For autumn planted bulbs, they will not need watering again through winter if they are outdoors. If they are in a greenhouse, they will only require watering when the compost feels almost completely dry. Once in growth in the spring, water bulbs in containers if you notice the soil feels dry. Most bulbs which are planted in beds and borders will receive sufficient water from natural rainfall during spring.
For spring planted (summer flowering) bulbs, water them as soon as they are planted and then leave watering until the top 2-3cm of soil starts to feel dry. Dormant bulbs don't need to be in wet soil all the time and would prefer to dry out slightly between waterings. You can water bulbs more frequently once in growth. Plants grown in containers are prone to drying out quickly and will certainly need extra water throughout the growing season.
Most true bulbs such as tulips and daffodils won't need feeding in their first season, but in future years it is well worth providing an application of slow-release fertiliser or Blood, Fish and Bone organic feed when you see the first signs of growth.
Vigorous tubers and rhizomes such as cannas, dahlias and begonias appreciate regular feeds throughout the growing season (a balanced liquid feed can be applied every 10-14 days) however it isn't essential and they should still flower well without.
Some bulbs and tubers grow into tall plants which may require a little extra support. The tall stems of dinnerplate dahlias will certainly benefit from a wooden stake beside them if they become weighed down by the flowers. Climbing species like gloriosa will need a trellis or an adjacent shrub to wind their twining leaf tendrils into as they climb. Stakes and vertical supports are always best positioned during planting, or early in the plant's growth, to avoid causing damage later on.
Removing faded flowers will keep the garden looking tidy. It also helps to redirect the plant's energy reserves to feed the bulb instead of producing unwanted seed. Dahlias in particular benefit from deadheading throughout summer as this will also promote more blooms!
Tidy gardeners may be tempted to remove the old foliage from spring bulbs as it begins to fade, but it's best to allow it to die back completely first. While the foliage is still green, it is still feeding the bulb before it enters its dormant period, ensuring that the plant will have enough energy to return next year. You can remove the leaves and stem once they have turned yellow or brown. The same applies to any summer flowering bulbs which end flowering while the leaves are still green, like Crocosmia.
Hardy bulbs can be left to die back naturally and re-emerge the following year with no special treatment. Half-hardy and tropical bulbs will need protecting from cold winter weather. Tropicals such as colocasias and caladiums can be brought indoors. If they are growing in pots then simply move the containers to a warm conservatory or heated greenhouse in early autumn.
Half-hardy species such as begonias and dahlias are a little tougher and will continue to flower well into autumn. Once the foliage is blackened by the first frosts, the tubers should be lifted from the soil and prepared for winter storage. This process involves trimming away the old stems and brushing off any remaining soil. Leave them in a dry, ventilated spot for a few days to dry out a little. Then simply wrap the tubers in a loose layer of newspaper, and store them in a cool, dry, frost free place—well out of reach of mice and other rodents! Alternatively store them in crates with a little dry compost. Remember to label the different varieties so you know which is which next spring.
Many perennial bulbs like daffodils, nerines and crocosmias are great naturalisers and will multiply in the soil, forming large clumps. If the clump is larger than you would like, they can be divided into smaller groups. This should be done while the bulbs are dormant—the clump can be lifted, separated into smaller clumps (pull the bulbs apart by hand if possible, or cut through with a spade for really dense clumps). These smaller clumps or separated bulbs can then replanted with a little more space between them.
The biggest problem with bulbs, rhizomes, corms and tubers is that they can be appetising to critters like mice and squirrels. If that becomes a problem in your garden, it is worth planting into pots which can be kept somewhere critter free until the bulbs have sprouted. Once they have sprouted, they are no longer appealing to rodents and can be transferred out into the garden. Another method is to cover pots or planted areas with chicken wire.
Bulbs can rot in wet soils. If you have a heavy soil type with a high clay content, it will be water retentive which means that over winter your bulbs can start to rot in the soil. The best way to overcome this is to dig in mulch every year to slowly improve the overall consistency of the soil. In the short term, a good handful of grit in each planting hole will help.
They can cause damage to any plants, not just bulbs, but they do particularly love dahlias. If you notice slug damage, you can try putting wool pellets around your plants. Alternatively, you can keep your dahlias potted in a greenhouse until they are large enough to withstand some slug damage on the lower leaves.
In case any of your plants are attacked by aphids, try welcoming natural predators into your garden before resorting to chemicals. Ladybird larvae are very effective aphid predators—they eat hundreds of them every day. Ladybird larvae can be sourced online rather than waiting for them to make their own way to your garden, greenhouse or polytunnel. Increasing biodiversity in your garden by making it a wildlife friendly space is the best long-term way of naturally tackling inflated numbers of pests like slugs and aphids. It's good for the planet too!
]]>Whether you're filling pots, entire flower beds or simply filling some gaps, estimating how many bulbs you need can feel like a minefield. Buy too many and some may go to waste, buy too few and your display might look sparse.
Gracy says:
"Working out just the right number of bulbs per square metre will make all the difference to both your garden and your budget."
Bulb and plant spacing recommendations give a useful measurement of the distance to leave between each bulb to achieve a good looking display. They are only a rough guide, so you can safely put away your tape measure! In reality, the spacing between each bulb depends just as much upon the type of display that you want to achieve. If you prefer your bulbs in drifts or dotted between other plants, you can leave a wider spacing. If you want to create bold block of colour, you can usually plant them a little closer than recommended.
A natural-looking display of perennial bulbs like crocuses, daffodils, winter aconites, camassias or snake's head fritillaries are best planted in irregular clumps leaving bigger gaps between each group. These will return year after year so it's worth giving them a little extra space to grow and multiply. Over time, these bulbs will naturalise and form swathes which look as though they have always been there.
Gentle drifts of bulbs or plants which merge into one another and flow across the border in complementary colours create a beautifully informal effect. To create this look, you can start by planting dense groups which spread out gradually into a wave or s-shaped drift, with wider and narrower areas, becoming more dissipated towards the end of the drift. At which point, you begin to merge in the next bulb or plant type to blend it into the neighbouring drift.
Big statement varieties like Fritillaria imperialis, lilies and eremurus are tall and impressive and can do with a little more space between bulbs so they can spread out and enjoy their time in the spotlight. Even with a wider spacing, towering varieties like these will create high impact planting scheme. Smaller bulb varieties can also be planted in between.
In contrast, a formal display of bedding plants like tulips or hyacinths can be planted quite densely to create chunky blocks of colour. There's no need to leave much space between these bulbs as they are generally treated as annuals, so they won't need extra room to grow in future years.
A mass planting of one variety of tulip will look spectacular. Team them up with a variety that flowers simultaneously and you can create a gorgeous colour combination. Another way to pair plants is to choose varieties which flower slightly earlier or later, doing this will extend the season of interest in your borders and pots.
Choosing the right planting partner isn't just about colour and flowering time. It's necessary to think about their heights too. For example, a large bed of tulips looks lovely combined with lower growing grape hyacinths or hyacinths. If you were to plant dahlias in a border, it's also worth paying attention to their heights too. As some grow taller than others, you will want the taller varieties near the back of the border and shorter ones closer to the front so that they all get the attention that they deserve.
Where space is limited you can try a lasagne planting technique with larger bulbs planted beneath layers of smaller bulbs. This will create a relaxed, eclectic feel that really suits cottage garden borders, with new bulbs popping up as others fade. That also means you can grow more of what you love in the space you have available.
Now that you know what type of display you are aiming for, you can use the table below to estimate roughly how many bulbs per square metre you will need.
Measure the length of the space and multiply this by the width to find out roughly how many m2 you need to plant, e.g: 3m x 1.5m = 4.5m2. Next, find the bulb variety in the table below and multiply your total m2 by the number of bulbs recommended.
Below, we've provided a selection of varieties which are frequently planted en-masse, and the figure shows the amount required to create a solid block of colour. If you want less of a dense display, then you won't need quite so many.
When planting multiple species within the same area you will need to tweak the estimated number of bulbs to suit your needs, but you can use the recommendations below as a good starting point!
Bulb genus / variety |
Bulbs per m2 |
Allium → large-flowered varieties e.g. cristophii / 'Giganteum' / 'Gladiator' / schubertii |
25 |
Allium → medium-flowered varieties e.g. 'Ambassador' / atropurpureum / nevskianum / 'Purple Sensation' |
30 |
Allium → small-flowered varieties e.g. azureum / caesium / moly / neapolitanum / sphaerocephalon |
100 |
Anemone → coronaria / 'Mistral®' / 'Fullstar' / blanda |
90-120 |
Begonia |
16 |
Bellevalia |
120 |
Calla |
16 |
Camassia |
30 |
Canna |
9 |
Chionodoxa |
200 |
Colchicum |
50 |
Convallaria |
100 |
Corydalis |
50 |
Crocosmia |
120 |
Crocus |
150 |
Dahlia |
5-9 |
Dutch iris |
100 |
Eranthis hyemalis |
150 |
Eremurus |
9-16 |
Erythronium |
25 |
Freesia |
100 |
Fritillaria → acmopetala / elwesii / michailovskyi / meleagris |
100 |
Fritillaria persica |
16 |
Fritillaria imperialis |
16 |
Galanthus |
150 |
Gladiolus |
30 |
Hyacinthus → hyacinths |
50 |
Hyacinthoides → bluebells |
100 |
Ipheion |
100 |
Iris reticulata |
120 |
Leucojum |
90 |
Lilium → lilies |
9 |
Muscari → grape hyacinths |
150 |
Narcissus → daffodils |
60 |
Narcissus → dwarf / miniature varieties |
75 |
Nectaroscordum |
50 |
Ornithogalum |
75 |
Paeonia → peonies |
3 |
Puschkinia |
175 |
Ranunculus |
90 |
Scilla → mischtschenkoana / sibirica |
100 |
Scilla peruviana |
25 |
Sternbergia |
150 |
Tulipa → tulips |
60 |
Tulipa → botanical and dwarf varieties |
100 |
When you are planting pots or hanging baskets, you can plant bulbs a little closer than you would if you were planting in a border. Padding out your pots with less space between bulbs ensures a full looking display.
As pots come in different shapes and sizes, we have shown the recommended spacing between bulbs for a selection of popular varieties. This way, you can work out how many bulbs you'll need for the pots you have available.
Bulb genus / variety |
Bulb spacing for pots |
Allium → small varieties |
5-7cm |
Allium → medium / large varieties |
15-20cm |
Anemone |
5-7cm |
Begonia |
15cm |
Caladium |
15cm |
Calla |
15cm |
Camassia |
15cm |
Canna |
20-30cm |
Chionodoxa |
5cm |
Colchicum |
10cm |
Crocosmia |
5-7cm |
Crocus |
5-7cm |
Dahlia → dwarf varieties |
15cm |
Dahlia |
25cm |
Dutch iris |
10cm |
Eremurus → excluding robustus and himalaicus |
10cm |
Erythronium |
10cm |
Freesia |
5-7cm |
Fritillaria → small varieties |
5-7cm |
Fritillaria persica / Fritillaria imperialis |
15cm |
Galanthus → snowdrops |
5-7cm |
Gladiolus |
10-13cm |
Hedychium |
10cm |
Hyacinthus → hyacinths |
5-7cm |
Hyacinthoides → bluebells |
5-7cm |
Leucojum |
8cm |
Lilium → lilies |
15cm |
Mirabilis |
15cm |
Muscari → grape hyacinths |
5-7cm |
Narcissus → daffodils |
8cm |
Narcissus → dwarf varieties |
5-7cm |
Ranunculus |
6-8cm |
Scadoxus |
10cm |
Scilla |
5-7cm |
Scilla peruviana |
8-10cm |
Tulipa → tulips |
5-7cm |
Tulipa → botanical and dwarf varieties |
4-6cm |
NB: These bulb spaces are approximate and don't have to be exact, give or take a couple of centimetres and they would still perform well.
Generous plantings of bulbs have the most dramatic effect! Large borders crammed with tulips look sensational, but these bulbs don't always grow so well in following years so they are best treated as annuals. This can make them quite a costly option if you have a lot of space to fill every year.
If you would prefer to not replace all of your bulbs each year, make sure you pad out plenty of space with perennial bulbs like narcissus, fritillaria, alliums and crocuses. That way, you have the option to just fill in the gaps each year with something fresh and new.
Where space is really very limited, you can still create a dreamy display that's loaded with colour by growing bulbs in containers. Containers don't just have to be positioned on the ground, you can put them on the patio table, on a low wall, or even a plant ladder! You can also move your pots around and change the look of your outdoors pace as frequently as you like. You can plant mixed pots using the bulb lasagne method for mixed pots, or keep it simple and stick to one variety per pot. Almost all bulbs are quite happy to grow in a container.
There's no such thing as having a few too many bulbs… unless that is a few too many hundred of course. Gardeners often think that they have over ordered, but then always manage to find somewhere to pop them in. It's amazing what forgotten little pockets of the garden you can find where the addition of some extra bulbs will add a splash of colour and transform the space, even if it wasn't planned. So our final tip is, if you can't decides how many bulbs to get but now have a fair idea, it's better to overestimate slightly and have a few too many than to not have enough. Luckily, gardening is a constant learning curve, so start with what you are comfortable with and we bet you'll learn something new with every season!
]]>The poppy genus – Papaver – contains around 50 species, and they come in a spectrum of colours. Annual poppies, such as the common or Flanders poppy (Papaver rhoeas) and the opium poppy (P. somniferum) are certainly beautiful, and worthy of a place in any summer garden.
However, the real joy of poppies for increasing numbers of gardeners are the Oriental Hybrid Poppies — perennial types that come back year after year. They are, in the main, forms of P. orientale, however botanists over the years have disagreed many times as to the actual species involved, with P. bracteatum and P. pseudo-orientale also getting in on the act. Fortunately, this botanical confusion is of little concern to the gardener, who really just wants some fabulous plants to grow and enjoy – and we have been able to secure a number of the very best Oriental Poppy cultivars for its customers.
They are incredibly hardy, and they are full of character. They provide a cheerful display of huge, satiny flowers, in a wide range of colours, in late spring and early summer – just as the spring bulbs have finished, and before the summer flowers have started.
Oriental Poppy blooms are good for cutting for indoor decoration, too, and are commonly sold in the summer flower markets of The Netherlands, Germany and elsewhere. They are best cut just before the buds open to reveal the petals. The cut ends of the stems should be sealed by burning them over a candle flame, or placing them for a short while in boiling water; this prevents them from wilting.
Oriental poppies are great border and flowerbed plants, and they can make good container plants – however they are not commonly seen in containers (because they die back to just a small clump of green leaves over winter, only to re-start into growth again in spring). Choose a deep container, as poppies have long tap roots, and fill it with a mixture of John Innes No.3 and a soil-less compost. If the roots languish in damp soil they are likely to rot, so don’t place a saucer under the pot. Instead, stand it on pot feet.
For the same reason, don’t plant these poppies in boggy ground; otherwise, any type of soil will do. A position in full sun is best. Get them off to a good start by incorporating plenty of organic material into the soil, such as well-rotted home-made compost, or bagged farmyard or horse manure.
For experienced gardeners, Oriental Poppy seed is available, and this may be sown in spring or autumn. Note, however, that most are hybrids, and they will not come true from seed, so it is far easier, and more accurate, to buy young, named plants. These can be planted in the ground all year round, providing conditions are suitable (that is, when the soil is not frozen, waterlogged or baked dry in a drought); the best times for planting are in spring or autumn.
The leaves appear early in the year, forming neat rosettes. In late spring, tall stems develop fat, hairy buds, and when these open they offer out their gloriously crumpled, papery petals. Bees and pollinating insects find it easy to access the centres of the blooms, and lap up the nectar that’s available.
Removing the dead flowers, and therefore stopping the production of seedheads, will prolong the flowering period. Snip out the entire stem. After the last flower fades, cut the all stems back hard to within 7cm / 3" of the ground – this may encourage a second flush of flowers in late summer or autumn.
It is a good idea to apply a general fertilizer during spring, but only do this once a year. Follow this with a mulch of bark chippings to retain soil moisture over the hottest months. Oriental poppies are very long-lived, and they have deep roots so, once planted, they don’t like to be moved. The clumps will become larger each year, but they will never become invasive.
After several years, the centre of a mature plant can become less productive, however it’s easy to revitalise large, old plants. During spring, prise them from the ground with a fork, and divide them into several smaller pieces, throwing away any dead bits. Replant as soon as possible, and water them in.
And now a word about pests and diseases: Nothing! Quite honestly, if you are wanting a garden plant that is likely to grow without any interference from insect pests, or fungal diseases or viruses, then Oriental Poppies are the answer. The only caveat to this is that if a plant becomes stressed, through too little in the way of soil nutrition, or moisture, then it may suffer with mildew disease. However you can easily insure against this by giving the plants an annual feed, and making sure they do not completely dry out.
Oriental poppies are great border and flowerbed plants, and they can make good container plants – however they are not commonly seen in containers (because they die back to just a small clump of green leaves over winter, only to re-start into growth again in spring). Choose a deep container, as poppies have long tap roots, and fill it with a mixture of John Innes No.3 and a soil-less compost. If the roots languish in damp soil they are likely to rot, so don’t place a saucer under the pot. Instead, stand it on pot feet.
↓ Papaver ‘Aglaja’ (order here) The early summer flowers of this cultivar are like a frilly party dress, with layer upon layer of coral pink petals, looking for all as though they made from tissue paper. The centres of the blooms are cherry-pink. A short and stocky poppy, it grows in its first year to just 50cm. Then, as the plant matures, each summer it will grow closer to 80cm. It has received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).
↓ Papaver ‘Marlene’ (order here) One of the most vibrant and exciting cultivars, when this bright and popular Oriental Poppy bursts into life from May to July, it is certain to become a talking point, with its beautiful, large, ruffled purple-red flowers, each with a darker centre. Bees and butterflies will love them, too. It grows to a height of 60-80cm.
↓ Papaver ‘Patty's Plum’ (order here) A really luscious Oriental Poppy, this has large, blousy flowers of deep reddish-purple, each with a contrasting darker centre. They are accompanied by bristly, grey-green leaves, which make the perfect backdrop. ‘Patty's Plum’ looks especially good next to plants with silver foliage. It grows to a height of 65-75cm.
↓ Papaver ‘Perry's White’ (order here) Large, silken, pure white flowers with deep purple-to-black central blotches are held on straight stems above a thick clump of long, bristly, mid-green leaves. This bold, showy, perennial will make a bright splash in any bed or border. Although it will tolerate a degree of shade during the day, a spot in full sun is best. ‘Perry’s White’ is regarded as the first white Oriental Poppy. It grows to a height of 70-120cm.
↓ Papaver ‘Pink Ruffles’ (order here) This has beautiful, semi-double, salmon pink, deeply-fringed flowers from late spring. The petals have a crepe paper-like texture, while each flower can be as much as 15cm across. In the centre of each bloom is a deep plum-to-black central blotch. The plant grows to a height and width of 60cm.
Recent history
Before we leave the subject of Oriental Poppies, we should just mention the person who we have to thank for all his development work in raising them. Until British nurseryman Amos Perry (1871-1953) came along, these plants just produced their coarse orange-red blooms. He wanted to produce poppies of different colours, and conducted trials over many years, at his nursery, in Enfield, North London. His first was a salmon-pink seedling from a field of thousands of orange ones and, in 1906, named it ‘Mrs Perry’ (after his first wife Nancy). It caused a sensation.
However, Amos didn’t want to stop there. He particularly wanted to breed a white Oriental Poppy, but for year after year it eluded him. Then, one day, a customer sent him an irate letter saying that one of her poppies, that was supposed to be pink, came out as a "nasty, fat, white one". Amos didn’t really believe it to be possible or likely, and an increasingly angry exchange of letters took place. Eventually he went along to the customer’s garden, armed with several ‘Mrs Perry’ plants, and lo, there was his elusive white poppy! It was duly dug up, and appeared in his 1912 catalogue as ‘Perry’s White’. It has been a top seller ever since. Amos bred 11 Oriental Poppies in total, which paved the way for others to take over where he left off.
]]>Of all the shady characters I’d be happy to have in my garden, the lovely, leafy hostas (more commonly known as plantain lilies) surely are at the top of the list. Originally, hostas come from China, Korea and Japan (where they are known as giboshi). In their natural homes they flourish in dappled shade and rich, moist soil. They were first introduced to Europe about 260 years ago, and became an instant hit thanks to the luxuriant nature of their leaves, and the delicacy and fragrance of their lily-like flowers!
Confusingly, during the mid-1800s, there were two names givens to hostas – and hosta wasn’t one of them. They were known as ‘funkia’ and (this is the confusing bit…) ‘Plant’. So, when garden designers of the day, such as the great Gertrude Jekyll, ordered gardeners to “plant a Plant”, not all of them knew what she meant!
Also, in those days there wasn’t much in the way of choice. It’s different now. Today there are a bewildering number of species and varieties (around 3000 hosta names are registered), so it’s perhaps best to see what plant experts, like Farmer Gracy, can recommend.
↓ Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ (order here) is a popular and lovely variety with small, round blue-green leaves that grow into a dense cluster. Even better, as the leaves are thick, it seems to be one of the few plantain lilies less prone to the ravages of slugs and snails (see below). In mid-summer these leaves are accompanied by sprays of lilac-coloured bell-shaped flowers. This hosta has received an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).
↓ Hosta ‘Devon Green’ (order here) is a sport of Hosta ‘Halcyon’, one of the most popular hostas of all time. It makes a dense, medium-sized hummock of heart-shaped leaves. Each leaf is a warm, dark green with a highly glossy surface. This shows in perfect relief its distinctive and prominent veining – the real attraction of this cultivar. It too is a slug-resistant form, and it, too, has received an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.
↓ Hosta ‘Guacamole’ (order here) is a quite new plantain lily that grows into a strong mound of large, heart-shaped leaves – each is softly ribbed, with a blue-grey margin and an apple-green to gold centre. The pale lavender flowers are large (like mini foxgloves), long-lasting and highly scented. And it’s another holder of the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.
↓ Hosta ‘Rainforest Sunrise’ (order here) is a compact reaching just 25 cm / 10" or so in height. It has thick, oval, cupped, prominently veined leaves of chartreuse to yellow, with dark green outer margins. In 2013 it was voted Hosta of the Year. A sport of the popular Hosta ‘Perry’s True Blue’, this delightful cultivar is extremely popular and also received an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.
↓ Hosta ‘Paul's Glory’ (order here) produces pale lavender flowers, but it’s the leaves that do all the work with this larger hosta. They are heart-shaped: golden in the centre, with broad, blue-green margins. Early in the season there is more of a greenish look to the plant, but the golden colouring intensifies, becoming the dominant colour (particularly if grown where the sun can shine down upon it for a part of the day). And, as the season progresses, the leaves are further transformed: the golden centres gradually whiten, and the leaves take on a slightly puckered appearance.
↓ Hosta ‘Twilight’ (order here) is a fairly new variety with thick, shiny leaves that are dark green in the centre, and with pronounced yellow margins. This yellow colouring turns to cream and white as the season progresses. Mature clumps can be a metre or more across in high season. It is a tetraploid variety – a sport of Hosta fortunei var. aureomarginata. This means that it is more compact, has thicker leaves, and has more pronounced flowers than other, similar (non tetraploid) varieties. It has also demonstrated good resistance to slugs.
↓ Hosta ‘Hands Up’ (order here) is a small to medium-sized cultivar. It is a tetraploid hybrid, very similar to the highly popular cultivar ‘Praying Hands’. However, being tetraploid, it is more compact, has thicker leaves, and has a noticeably wider yellow edge to the leaves, which enhance the uniquely upright folded growth. The centre of the leaves is a rich, dark green. It was bred in The Netherlands by one of Europe’s leading Hosta producers, Marco Fransen, and, of course, it has received an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.
↓ Hosta ‘Forbidden Fruit’ (order here) is a medium-sized cultivar with thick, highly coloured leaves. The outer edges are blue-green, while the inner sections are of a glowing, egg-yolk yellow and orange. Towards the end of the season, the centre or the leaf is almost white. In mid- to late summer, its flowers attract bees. This is a tetraploid Hosta – meaning that it is more compact, has thicker leaves, and has more pronounced flowers than other, similar (non-tetraploid) varieties. It is another holder of the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.
Yes, hostas (or plantain lilies) are great plants for a shady part of the garden. However, if you plant them in deep shade, they flower less than those given a little more light. Deep shade will certainly make blue-leaved hostas bluer than if they are in bright light. But actually, contrary to popular wisdom, not all hostas need shade – some actually enjoy a bit of sunshine. These are generally the yellow and gold-leaved types, which have thickish foliage. So, taking this all into consideration, the ideal place for most hostas is dappled shade, with a decent soil that does not dry out too quickly.
If you’re unsure about the soil, or how much shade your hostas should or shouldn’t be getting, grow them in pots so you can show them off to best advantage. Rather than to pot them in a general or multipurpose compost, I’ve found the best compost to be a John Innes No 2, with some extra grit mixed in. Mulching around the plants – whether they’re in pots or in the ground – with coarse grit helps to retain moisture (and could deter the opportunist slug!). It’s not a bad idea, too, to mix in some water-retaining granules to the potting compost, to help stop pots drying out.
Also, you should feed the plants three or four times during the growing season. If your hostas are in the ground, I would mulch around them just before they start into growth with well-rotted manure or compost. Then, before the leaves get too large, sprinkle some slow-release fertiliser or a handful of fish, blood and bone around the base of each plant. For plantain lilies in pots, I tend to apply a half-strength tomato feed or seaweed feeds three or four times during the growing season. One gardener I know prefers to use chicken pellets around the base of hostas in pots, but there can be a whiff if those pots are near to where you sit!
I know, I know. You are thinking to yourself, why should you bother with hostas in the first place – they just get shredded by slugs and snails! Well, there are ways to foil those munching monsters!
And finally, this is not for everyone, but keep chickens or ducks! Small, feathery-footed bantams actually do very little damage to the general garden, and they eat countless numbers of slugs. And, I’m told, ducks are even better!
Graham Clarke |
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It has happened to Senecio (or, now it should be Brachyglottis), and Coleus (Solenostemon), and Schizostylis (Hesperantha), and so on, and on. It has also happened to one of my favourite plants of all time: the Cimicifuga. Now, and forever more, it must be known as Actaea. Regardless of any name-hanging, however, this is a plant I will never be without in my garden!
Actaeas are also known as baneberries, bugbanes and snakeberries, and they thrive in shade. They have strong, architectural foliage from August to October, and flowers that seem to float above the leaves. They have some of the largest flower spikes you will ever find in a shade garden, too. These plants are refined and elegant, and they like to be noticed.
And I’m delighted to say that Farmer Gracy is now offering arguably the best of these Cimicifugas – sorry, Actaeas. It’s Actaea simplex (Atropurpurea Group) ‘Brunette’, a particularly classy plant, with large leaves of rich purple-black. In reasonably shady positions they hold this colour well into autumn; in more open or sunny positions, these deep purple leaves will probably fade slightly.
They do best where conditions are not too dry, and grow to a height of some 60-90 cm / 24-36", with their black-waving flower spikes much taller. From late summer, these spikes are topped by bottlebrush heads, purple-pink in bud, opening to white and heavily fragrant flowers. These flowers continue for weeks, and weeks. They are fragrant, too, and when they do fade, attractive seedheads soon follow. ‘Brunette’ has a surprisingly long period of interest, from spring when new shoots unfurl from a woody crown, until well into autumn. No staking is required.
The species, Actaea simplex, is native to northern Japan, northeastern China, Korea and into Russia and Siberia, so there is absolutely no question about its hardiness.
‘Brunette’ was first selected more than 30 years ago by a Danish nurserywoman who spotted seedlings of A. simplex ‘Atropurpurea’, which were varying greatly. She chose some with particularly good foliage, and kept refining these, ending up with a new plant possessing finely divided leaves that emerge a deep, almost black-purple.
Like most Actaeas, ‘Brunette’ is easily grown given a good soil that does not dry out, and with a high humus content (in other words, with well-rotted compost or leaf mould added to it over time). As these plants originated in cooler parts of the northern hemisphere, in UK gardens they are best in half shade, or full sun if you live in the north of Britain.
Propagation may be carried out in spring, by dividing large, mature clumps. Otherwise, these plants prefer not to be disturbed too often.
Actaea ‘Brunette’ associates well with ornamental grasses (such as the Japanese Hakone Grass, Hakonechloa macra ‘Alboaurea’), as well as traditional border plants such as Geranium ‘Johnson’s Blue’ and Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’.
Other Actaeas I’d be happy to make room for in my garden include ‘Black Beauty’ (with similar dramatically dark foliage); A. matsumurae (elegant white flowers followed by lime-green seed heads that last through winter); and the white baneberry, A. pachypoda (also known as ‘Doll’s Eyes’, with mid-green foliage, and white flowers that are followed with large, round white fruit with a black eye).
Finally, I’m pleased to say that I’m not alone in my appreciation of these beautiful baneberries. Influential Dutch garden designer, plant nurseryman, author, and renowned ‘king’ when it comes to modern planting style – Piet Oudolf (wiki) – uses them too. A leading figure of the “New Perennial” movement, he has created numerous breath-taking garden designs and plant compositions, using bold drifts of perennials and grasses (chosen as much for their structure and elegance as for their colour). A few years ago I walked the length of his High Line garden in New York, and was bowled over by his use of form and plant majesty. And Actaea ‘Brunette’, along with Miscanthus grasses, Rudbeckias and Eupatoriums, were all playing major roles throughout the planting schemes.
As far as the Actaea is concerned, Piet has exquisite taste!
]]>And that is ironic, for I remember when I was a boy we visited someone’s garden, and my father (who was a far better gardener than I could ever be), pointed out a weed and said: "That’s creeping wood sorrel. It’s one of the worst weeds. They need to get rid of that!". As a grown-up, I owned a garden that was full of it, and I then knew my dad knew his stuff. The weed was horrendous, and for years I hated the word oxalis (the Latin name for wood sorrel). I thought of it purely as a persistent weed.
But that’s a real shame, because I missed out on growing the ornamental, easy and, yes, extremely beautiful – and non-invasive – flowering oxalis. These are low-maintenance plants, requiring no fuss. Given a spot in a mild or sheltered garden, they’ll come back for a repeat show every year! Their bulbs are some curious, strange-looking things, but they grow into beautiful little plants.
Recently, Farmer Gracy has extended its Oxalis versicolor offering with two new and excellent cultivars. So, let’s look at what you get:
Known as the candy cane sorrel, this is a sweet treat for your late summer garden. A softcushion of green clover-like leaves is topped – from July until the first frosts – with flowersof red and white. They start as tightly pointed buds, and unravel during the day to becomespirals – rather like a barber’s sign. Or, as the common name suggests, red and whitespiralled candy. It looks great with blue bedding Ageratum or Lobelia (for the traditional red,white and blue look), as well as an underplanting for white or red roses.
Height: 10-20 cm / 4-8"
In place of red-and-white flowers, this beautiful cultivar offers a warm and romantic red-and-pink spiral combination. Otherwise it is pretty much identical – and equally desirable. It looks great near to lime green lady’s mantle (Alchemilla), as well as the warmer-coloured blue-purple of bugle (Ajuga).
Height: 10-20 cm / 4-8"
Here we have the third candy cane sorrel – this time with vibrant flowers of red-and-yellow. This is, arguably, a more eye-catching plant when in flower, and really suits a planting scheme with other hot-colour plants. I’ve also seen it looking fabulous next to white petunias.
Height: 10-20 cm / 4-8"
These oxalis like a free-draining site, so are at their best on a sandy or gritty soil. They look at home on a gravel or rock garden. If your soil is a heavy, wet clay – don’t worry, for they are perfectly suited to growing in a container with a gritty compost. They can endure temperatures down to -5ºC, so if your garden regularly gets around this or colder, then you would be advised to grow them in pots, and bring them indoors during the colder spells of winter.
When you order your oxalis bulbs from Farmer Gracy, there is every chance you’ll think they’ve sent you the wrong thing! But they won’t have…oxalis bulbs are some of the strangest-looking structures in gardening! Initially, they look like chubby, grubby small pinecones, the size of broad beans. However, they are very much the right thing and, when planted, could produce fabulous foliage and flowers in just 8-10 weeks.
Incidentally, there are some types of oxalis bulb, including the Iron Cross type (O. tetraphylla), that are pretty ‘normal’ to look at. So at least you won’t be able to confuse them!
You can plant your strange little oxalis bulbs in autumn or spring, for summer flowering. Depending on how you wish to grow them, follow these guides:
Patio pots and containers:Don’t forget the house:
Before using up all your Oxalis versicolor bulbs in patio containers and the garden, consider potting up a few for indoors. They make great pot plants for sunny windowsills, conservatories and, of course, greenhouses.
After flowering:
After late autumn, once your oxalis finish flowering, do nothing – at first. As with any plant growing from a bulb, it is important to leave the fading foliage in place. Certainly, don’t cut it off. As the leaves turn yellow and rot away, they gather sunlight and, by so doing, create food through photosynthesis to strengthen the bulb for next year.
Eventually the bulbs slip into their winter slumber, or dormancy. At this point, the leaves may be removed. The bulbs will rest for a few months in the compost or soil, and before you know it, they’ll be springing back into life again – in spring!
■ Incidentally the wood sorrel weed, referred to at the start of this blog, isn’t all bad. In India the leaves are sometimes dried to make a tea tasting vaguely of lemon. Meanwhile, native American peoples chewed it to alleviate thirst on long trips. Some also ate it to alleviate sore throats and mouths, and others to help with nausea, cramps and fever. They also cooked it with sugar to make a dessert – and some thought it had aphrodisiac qualities!
Meanwhile, the leaves of scurvy-grass sorrel (O. enneaphylla) used to be eaten by sailors travelling around South America, as a source of vitamin C to prevent scurvy. And in various parts of South America Oxalis tuberosa is grown as a root vegetable, called oca.
]]>Who isn’t impressed by a beautiful peony in full bloom? These plants are virtually unrivalled in their ability to bring impact and drama to a garden. Once established, they flourish for decades, bringing large quantities of flamboyant blooms in a magical range of colours, as well as outstanding, often finely cut foliage. And, as I write this, the buds on the peonies in my garden are swelling day-by-day. The excitement I’m feeling about them opening is palpable. In this blog post, I will tell you more about a special group of peonies: Itoh Peonies.
Now, there are herbaceous peonies and there are tree peonies. The herbaceous types are generally lower-growing (although not necessarily by much), whilst tree peonies are taller and woodier. Also, tree peonies are visible all-year-round as they don’t die back to nothing in winter, unlike the herbaceous types.
Both types are worthy of garden space, and I’d fill my garden with them if I could. For many of us, however, space is at a premium, and we might only have room for just one or two peonies, so why not choose something that enjoys the best of both herbaceous and tree peonies?
Yes, there is a group that combines the perfect mix of the two. These are called – a bit of a mouthful I’m afraid – Intersectional Hybrids. Mmm – not a very friendly name. So, let’s use a better name. Let’s call them the Itoh Hybrids or Itoh Peonies – pronounced ‘ee-toe’! To discover more about them, we need to go back in time.
In the early 1940s a Japanese doctor, Toichi Itoh from Tokyo, decided that he wanted to see if there was any merit in crossing a herbaceous perennial peony with a woody tree peony. His initial idea was to produce a truly yellow, double flower on a herbaceous peony; the doesn’t exist in nature, and the only real yellow herbaceous peony is with the fleeting but beautiful P. mlokosewitschii, also known comically as Molly-the-Witch (because we Brits found it impossible to pronounce the Latin name!).
But what Toichi Itoh actually ended up with was something much better than a mere yellow herbaceous peony!
He started by using pollen from the yellow tree peony ‘Alice Harding’ to fertilize the herbaceous peony Paeonia lactiflora ‘Kakoden’. For many years he cross-pollinated the blooms, saved and grew the seed, discarded the ones he didn’t want, and refined the selection so that eventually, after several thousand crosses, he ended up with a few dozen yellow seedlings. The eventual result was a new plant category, which became known as Intersectional, or Itoh Peonies.
The cultivar ‘Yellow Crown’ ↑ was one of the first four Itoh Peonies to be released, and it has stood the test of time so well that Farmer Gracy still offer it today, along with many other newer forms.
The sad irony is that Toichi Itoh died in 1956, and the first real flowering and acceptance of his hybrids did not take place until 1964. He didn’t live to see his success, but I do suspect that he knew his creations were entirely unique.
Although I like to refer to them still as Itoh Peonies, many varieties and different colours have appeared over the years. These, of course, have had nothing to do with Itoh himself, so it is more accurate to call them by their correct name, Intersectional Peonies.
Itoh Peonies are like their herbaceous cousins: short in stature, and most varieties form a dense mound. But they also have short, woody stems, like a tree peony. The flowers and leaves are in perfect proportion to one another, taking the best from each of the parents. Leaves are large, leathery, deeply divided and mat or glossy. The plants flower essentially at the same time as herbaceous peonies (from early to late June) but, because they have so many buds, they are in bloom for far longer.
The flowers are big, too, and generally they are semi-double. They open from large, beautifully shaped buds into deep bowl-shaped blooms, that tend to loosen and become lax as they age. And a bloom can last as long as five days: at night it closes up for protection. It is entirely possible, too, that there will be occasional flowers much later in the year (particularly on the cultivar ‘Bartzella’, another of the those offered by Farmer Gracy). In the autumn, the leaves of Itoh Peonies turn red, then simply and elegantly drop and fade to nothing.
These peonies demonstrate good resistance to the dreaded and usually deadly peony wilt disease – I have never see any of them affected by it!
Today, Intersectional Peonies can be found in a wider range of colours than any other peony group, from yellow and white, through creams and apricot, to pink and various shades of red. And some have colours that morph into others, for a two-, three- or multi-toned look. However, because they are still reasonably new, and stock is quite rare, and this is why most Intersectional Peonies are considered expensive when compared to normal peonies.
They enjoy the same garden conditions as both herbaceous and tree peonies: a reasonably fertile, well-drained soil (ideally neutral to slightly acid). They prefer a spot in full sun, but they will grow perfectly well in a place that has a little shade for part of the day.
Recently, Farmer Gracy has extended it amazing range of Intersectional Peonies, so let’s look at the cultivars:
Height: 60-75 cm / 24-30"
Height: 75-80 cm / 30-32"
Height: 60-70 cm / 24-28"
Height: 60-75 cm / 24-30"
Height: 60-90 cm / 24-36"
Height: 60-75 cm / 24-30"
Height: 60-90 cm / 24-36"
■ Incidentally, do you know how the peony got its name? I suggest you sit down for this: Paeon was the Greek god of medicine and healing (and was also known as Apollo). Some say he was a student of Asclepius, while others say Asclepius was his son. Anyway, Asclepius became jealous of Paeon but, fortunately, Zeus – the god of the sky, lightning and thunder – saved him from Asclepius’ wrath by turning him into a flower – which was given the name of the hapless victim. Apparently, this is all true!
Graham Clarke |
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↑ Beautiful planting combo of Stachys (Alpine Betony) and Geranium (Cranesbill)
Also noteworthy is their typically low-maintenance nature which means you don’t have to make too much of a fuss to get them to do well. The determination of hardy perennials is undeniable, once they’re happy in their place they just keep on giving!
If you want quicker results than growing from seed (which can take years to establish into a substantial plant) but don’t want to pay nursery prices for potted plants, the bare root option is without doubt the way forward.
When choosing plants, buying potted plants which have benefitted from months of time and care in a nursery can be a pricy way to do it. The great thing about hardy perennials is that they are very easy to grow at home yourself, not requiring any special protection or expensive methods. Plus, being acclimatised to your garden conditions from the start, they may well even establish quicker.
↑ These are the bare roots of Allium 'Millenium'
Pre-potted plants may have been grown from cuttings, seeds or bare roots. While they may have some bushy top growth, they may not be very mature and it could take some time before they establish a strong root system and really start to put on a good show. Bare roots are taken from established plants which gives them a head start with a bit more guts and vigour from the very beginning – they’re ready and raring to continue growing and working as they were on the established parent plant they were taken from – this is what forms a stronger and more vigorous plant in the first years.
Hardy perennials are typically undemanding, fairly resilient and can be exposed to the elements from an early stage. This means you don’t have to worry about making space to start them off in a greenhouse. That said, a little nurture at first does go a long way towards producing healthy plants which establish quickly.
↑ Echinacea 'Strawberry & Cream' (Coneflower)
Bare root perennials can grow very well if planted straight into borders, but doing so does expose them to the risk of becoming lost among neighbouring plants, subject to disturbance during routine weeding as well as competition with more established plants around them. Also, it’s not uncommon for the roots to be whipped out and lost by birds looking for worms! To allow your bare root plants a chance to establish without accidental disturbance or competition, we recommend potting them up first in temporary pots and growing them on in a sheltered, sunny spot outdoors for a few months before planting out.
Generally speaking, most hardy perennial plants will do well in a position with full sun or partial shade and a free-draining soil, but do check the instructions on each variety before choosing where to plant them to make sure you find a spot that’s well suited. Some varieties, including Convallaria, Dicentra and Epimedium prefer a cool position in shade with a fairly moist soil. Then there are plants like Astilbe which enjoys a damp, poorly drained soil.
↑ Dicentra spectabilis 'Cupid' (Bleeding Heart")
It’s worth noting that perennial plants grown from bare roots often take a year to establish before they start to make a big impression. In the first year, you can expect to see a modest display of flowers and foliage, but each year thereafter they come back with around twice the impact!
Follow these brief instructions to help get your bare root perennials off to a good start…
Most perennials are very happy to grow in pots and will provide you with a low maintenance display which will come back each year. Generally speaking, a large, sturdy pot is best if you have plants which are over 30cm tall and wide, so that it doesn’t topple over on a windy day. Lower growing plants like hardy geraniums are great for pots because they are also drought tolerant, reducing the need to keep your pots watered throughout the season.
↑ Agapanthus 'Poppin' Purple' (African Lily) in a pot
Use a soil-based compost or garden soil instead of multipurpose compost when planting a permanent perennial pot display as this will be more robust, heavier and has a higher density to able to support your plants for longer without shrinking down.
Part of the beauty of hardy perennials is that they are generally fairly low maintenance – as long as they’re in the right spot and they’re happy, they’ll do their job without much fuss at all. Those which grow tall could benefit from staking either once in growth or by putting a support in place for them to grow through. Otherwise, allow them to grow throughout summer, deadheading as and when necessary. Some earlier-flowering varieties may bloom again towards late summer. At the end of the season when flowering has finished, cut the stems right down to just above ground level. Their hardiness means the plants can remain unprotected throughout winter, before putting on fresh growth the following spring.
↑ Digging up and (optionally) dividing a clump for replanting
Do take note of the plant’s preferred conditions when choosing where to plant it. Those which prefer a shady position may not cope in full sun, and vice-versa. If you aren’t sure, go ahead and plant it and give it a bit of time – if you find that it isn’t thriving, it is likely that it doesn’t like the conditions it is growing in. But the good thing about perennials is that they are happy to be moved around, so if they look unhappy, simply dig up the clump in autumn and replant it immediately in a part of the garden with more favourable conditions.
Many hardy perennials are clump forming, which means that they grow a larger root network and base, or ‘clump’ as they establish over the years. Once you have a large clump, you can lift and divide it – doing so helps to keep the plants healthy and productive, it also means you gain extra plants for free!
The best time to divide perennials is in late Autumn when the soil is consistently moist, this allows time for the plants to settle in over winter so they can continue to grow undisturbed in the spring. If you don’t get around to it in autumn, you can divide perennials in early spring too.
↑ Lifting and dividing perennial root clumps
To divide your perennials, use a spade to dig around the clump and carefully lift the whole thing. Once out of the ground, use your spade to cut the clump into sections, either in half or quarters depending on how big it is. Then, simply replant the sections in the same place but with a little more space between them in which to grow, or replant one in the same place and replant the others elsewhere in the garden.
When it comes to positioning plants in the border, think about their heights, habits, colours and flowering time. Taller varieties should be positioned towards the back, whereas more compact or low-growing perennials should be nestled in at the front where they can be seen. Whether you have a special colour scheme or a full colour palette, you’ll want to make sure that your colours are evenly spaced too.
↑ Example perennial planting scheme
If you have multiples of one plant variety, they’ll make a bigger impact if planted in groups of three or more. If you have a large border, repeating groups of the same variety a few times along the length of the border will help create a professional look. Also, choose plants which flower successively to provide a full season of colour.
Putting on their best show in a partially shaded space, Caladiums are just the thing for livening up a dull part of the garden. You can turn an enclosed courtyard, shaded patio, or any dimly-lit nook into a lush, tropical chill-out zone with a packed-out planting scheme of these colourful, vibrant plants.
Throughout summer they continuously unfurl their lovely lustrous leaves and soon pad out their space. Incorporate them into bedding and patio displays, or go for a full-blown jungle vibes and plant them under palms for a shock of ground-level colour. Forming bushy mounds of heart-shaped leaves, they effortlessly create what looks like an expertly designed planting scheme wherever they’re put.
You can also grow Caladiums as house plants. If you want to make the most of a warm, bright conservatory or you have a sleek modern home interior which could do with a splash of colour, a jazzy Caladium in a pot should do the trick. Whether you choose to grow them indoors or out, there’s no doubt that a punchy summer display of Caladiums are total crowd pleasers.
The key to success with Caladiums lies in replicating the tropical conditions they originate from, as closely as possible. The good news is – this can be done wherever you wish to grow them, with a little care and attention to their basic needs.
First up, despite the bright and jazzy appearance of these plants, they don’t require a lot of light to thrive. In fact, too much direct sunlight is not recommended at all for Caladiums – instead dappled sunshine, or exposure to the gentle rays of the morning or evening sun, would be ideal. Some varieties are more light-tolerant than others, but on the whole – bright sunshine runs the risk of searing brown spots on the leaves of your Caladiums, or causing a bleached effect, fading out their trademark bright colours. Therefore, it’s safest to choose a partially or fully shaded growing spot which closely mimics their natural growing conditions on the rainforest floor.
If you have a tricky north or east facing area in your garden that isn’t touched by the sun for most of the day, and is crying out for an injection of bright colour – then Caladiums can be the perfect solution!
Caladiums are thirsty plants and prefer plenty of moisture in the soil. They will happily grow under trees and larger shrubs that give the required shade, just take care that they’re not planted right in the thick of the tree’s roots, in fierce competition for water in the soil as they may not get their required moisture level. Regular watering will ensure plenty of luscious leaves, and for a low-maintenance way to help create the perfect conditions, a thick mulch of compost or bark chippings can help to lock in moisture and provide the fertile, damp soil that Caladiums crave.
These architectural plants are also ideal for growing in containers. They form a lush mound of leaves, holding their shape well, and won’t sprawl or droop. It’s easy to monitor the moisture levels of any pot grown plant by gently tipping the pot and feeling the weight. Do take note, though – any kind of waterlogging won’t do these tubers any favours at all, so any boggy areas are best avoided. If growing in containers, do ensure your pots and planters have holes in the bottom to provide sufficient drainage. Once you have a moist but well-drained growing medium, your tubers will be perfectly happy and will reward you with vigorous growth!
When choosing the best time to plant out your Caladium tubers, bear in mind that these tropical beauties require plenty of consistent warmth. When planting outside, the safest option is to wait until late spring when any risk of frost has passed in your area, by which time the soil should have warmed up and a consistent level of heat can be expected. You can also get them going slightly earlier, provided this is in a warm location like a greenhouse, conservatory or in your home.
When your Caladiums arrive, they will be brown with a rough, knobbly side which are the growing points, and a smoother side – they should be planted with the growing points facing upwards. Plant tubers around 5cm deep, it is best to start them off them in individual 6" pots. For the growing medium, any rich potting compost will do – you can up the organic matter levels further by mixing in some bark chips (such as Orchid compost), or perhaps moss.
Caladiums are tropical plants and must be started off in warm indoor conditions in the spring - they require fairly consistent temperatures of around 20C or more to come out of dormancy and can be slow to get going, it’s reasonable to expect them to take 6-8 weeks from planting for the first leaves to emerge, so be patient and do resist the temptation to overwater while they’re in their dormant state. When foliage begins to emerge, you’ll notice the surrounding soil or compost begin to dry out, so you can up the water levels then. Once your Caladium bulbs have sprouted a few leaves and when the outdoors temperatures are around 20C, they can be transferred outside into a sheltered, shady part of the garden.
Caladiums – quick planting guide:
Keep an eye on the weather forecast as from early September as Caladiums are best brought under cover before any hint of frost to protect the tuber from any damage. They are perennial, so you can lift the tubers and store them over the winter for planting again the following spring. Simply cut back any foliage then lift the tubers gently and leave to dry off for a week or so. Then, shaking off any loose soil, you can store them in trays of dry compost, or wrapped in a layer of newspaper, in any dry, dark and frost-free place. A garden shed or garage would be an ideal location to keep them snug through the winter. Those grown in pots can be moved into your home to enjoy indoors as the cold season sets in.
With excellent tolerance to lower light levels, they make a fabulously exotic houseplants! They will relish the consistently warm atmosphere your home and can be encouraged to stay in leaf for far longer than those grown outdoors. A windowsill would be an ideal location, provided it is north, east or west facing and doesn’t become a sun-trap at any time of day. Alternatively, a shelf, counter top or a small table near to a window will be a great spot for your Caladium plant.
It’s worth noting that the water consumption of your Caladium will be relative to the light levels it receives. The number one mistake people make with houseplants is overwatering – they usually need less than you’d think! Water consumption varies hugely, depending on the plant’s stage in its growing cycle, and the light levels it’s currently exposed to. A plant will need much more in spring and early summer when days are lengthening and it’s rapidly putting out fresh foliage than in the dark days of winter when it is largely dormant. This applies to houseplants too which still rely on natural light through the window which contains the required red and blue elements of the light spectrum. Bear in mind that artificial light is largely yellow, so won’t provide everything your Caladium needs.
The compost of an indoor-grown Caladium should be kept damp, but they shouldn’t stand in water – good drainage is key! It’s best to water sparingly, a good way to check is to dip a finger in to the compost and if it’s damp enough, particles of compost should stick to your finger. If it feels dry to the touch, then go ahead and water.
In their natural growing conditions in South and Central America, Caladiums are used to humidity levels of 50%, so ideally you need to replicate this in an indoor environment. You’ll be pleased to hear that there’s plenty of creative ways to do this! Carefully choose where you locate your plants, first of all. The kitchen is often the hub of any home, and always has plenty of moisture in the air from cooking and boiling the kettle. Why not use this space to create a vibrant display of potted Caladiums that will be a talking point for any visitors, and a colourful backdrop to family mealtimes?
Alternatively, the bathroom provides ample humidity to keep these rainforest plants happy – imagine chilling in the bath amongst your own personal jungle of lush foliage! You can grow Caladiums in other areas of the house too. A handy trick to keep humidity levels high in other areas of your home includes using a mister or spray bottle – a good spritz daily will keep your Caladium blissfully happy. For a lower maintenance option, a shallow saucer of water, perhaps with some ornamental pebbles, provides the same effect. As the water gently evaporates, it provides a little extra humidity to help it along. And, if you’re a Caladium enthusiast who’ll stop at nothing to keep your precious specimens happy, a room humidifier can be bought relatively inexpensively and will ensure optimum conditions allowing you to monitor levels and keeping them consistent.
Top tips for growing Caladiums indoors
Inspired to give these wonderful foliage plants a try?
Take a look at our full range of colourful Caladiums here!
A woodland classic ideal for growing in dappled shade, elegant Cyclamen hederifolium (ivy-leaved cyclamen) will bring a much-needed fresh splash of colour to brighten up the space in autumn. Producing multiple flowering stems each topped with a sweet pink nodding flower, above a neat clump of silver-marbled leaves. Not only is this a real natural beauty, but this hardy perennial bulb will treat you to a repeat show, effortlessly every year.
Shade-loving Cyclamen are compact plants, so even if the space you have available is limited you can still tuck a few into small gaps or even use them to fill a beautiful autumn container. If you have a large woodland area to fill, enjoy the natural charm of these autumn beauties each year with the minimum of effort by planting them in stylish drifts, groups or swathes. Read on to find out more about getting the most out of these cheery woodland bulbs…
When it comes to growing hardy cyclamen, once established they really are a piece of cake. They’re not fussy about soil type (as long as it isn’t boggy) and can even tolerate quite a dry soil. Being fully hardy, they’re perfectly happy to stay planted all year round. Here’s how to get them started:
With many summer flowers which are still in bloom until the first frosts - dahlias to begonias to name just two – there’s no reason why your garden shouldn’t be full of colour and life all through the late season. Other than late-flowering summer varieties, there are also some bulbs, like cyclamen, which are just coming to life in autumn to inject a fresh bit of colour into the garden and will thrive in the same partially shaded conditions.
Cyclamen hederifolium are effortlessly beautiful and will happily take centre stage as the main autumn colour feature. But if you would like to introduce a bit more variety or contrast to the space then why not try one of these stunning combinations:
Cyclamen hederifolium + Sternbergia lutea
With sunny, yellow upright goblet-shaped blooms, Sternbergia provide the perfect contrast to the delicate pink cyclamen. Flowering around the same time, a peppering of Sternbergia in small groups around your cyclamen will create a dazzling display which will light up any partially shaded, woodland or shrubbery space. Don’t worry about the colours being so different, in autumn the golden sunlight and coppery fallen leaves gives everything an air of magic – all colours are welcome!
Cyclamen hederifolium + Colchicum autumnale 'Album'
White flowers are great at acting as highlights help to draw attention to delicate flowers sitting in shade. Autumn flowering Colchicum autumnale ‘Album’ is ideal for the job of drawing your eye in from afar towards a planting of cyclamen. Blooming in autumn with its large, white attention-grabbing flowers, plant these perennial bulbs in informal groups close by to your cyclamen and they will work harmoniously together to bring a vibrant lift to the space.
Cyclamen hederifolium + Nerine bowdenii
Nerines flower at the same time as Cyclamen but the bulbs are normally planted in spring, rather than autumn. Although they enjoy a sunny spot best, classic Nerine bowdenii will do just fine in a partially or dappled shade area too. Their extravagant flowers come to life around September each year, also with a pretty pink hue which will perfectly complement your Cyclamen. Try planting Cyclamen and Nerines in neighbouring autumn patio containers, or position a few small groups of Nerines in the sunnier parts of your woodland area to give it a really special autumn glow.
]]>Growing certain bulb varieties indoors is easy and also a brilliant way to introduce vibrant splashes of colour and scent to your home interior. Plus, because the plants are live, the flowers last much longer than if they were cut.
There are various bulbs which you can grow successfully indoors, even without any pre-chilling, preparation or faff. Here are our top three:
The distinctive, powerful scent of Paperwhites is reason enough to grow these bulbs in your home. But as a double whammy you also get an impressive display of pearly white blooms which look opulent and fresh in any interior.
Native to Israel, these special Narcissi are adapted to high temperatures and will not tolerate frost, so they can’t be planted outside. Ideally suited to growing indoors, simply pot them up and position them in the warmth of your home in autumn and they will soon spring into action, typically blooming during the festive season.
Paperwhites are not fussy when it comes to soil type. As a one-season wonder they don’t require a lot of nutrients and will grow happily in a multipurpose compost or even on a bed of gravel in a vase. Their two main requirements are water and light. Plant them in a well-lit part of your home which receives plenty of natural light during the day, and check they have a good level of moisture in the soil every day.
How to grow Paperwhites
Narcissus tazetta ‘Paperwhite Ziva’ are very easy to grow and soon start to put on growth after they are planted. Those planted in September may be slightly slower to wake up than those planted in October or November.
Top tips for growing Paperwhites:
Autumn flowering crocuses, including Sternbergia, Colchicum and Crocus sativus (or Saffron Crocus) are fantastic for bringing dazzling autumn colour to the garden, where they are fully hardy and will naturalise and return year after year. Not only this, but they can also be grown very easily in your home to create an attractive living indoor feature.
You can be creative with how you choose to grow them indoors, either potting them up into pretty indoor containers, growing them individually in special bulb vases or grouped together inside a large glass vase.
There is no preparation required for these bulbs, which are raring to start growing at their natural time, which is indeed autumn. Plant them in September or October and they will get started almost right away. They’re undemanding, fuss free and will bloom even when neglected – if you like the sound of that then you must give autumn crocuses a try!
How to grow autumn crocuses indoors
Top tips for growing autumn crocuses indoors:
Amaryllis flowers are big, blousy and impressive. Even the bulbs themselves are satisfyingly big and chunky! They’re easy to grow too – with minimal care and attention, these tremendous bulbs will shoot up a sizeable stem before throwing out a radial of whopping great blooms at the top.
You can grow Amaryllis as a living decoration, typically flowering in time to wow your guests during the festive season. Pot them up in autumn and they normally take between 6-10 weeks to reach flowering stage. If you buy more than one bulb, you can plant them at two-week intervals to extend your Amaryllis display into the New Year.
You don’t have to worry about preparing or pre-chilling your Amaryllis bulbs, by autumn they are normally eager to get growing soon after being planted. You can grow them in any ordinary multipurpose or houseplant compost, then just add water and off they go!
How to grow Amaryllis bulbs
Top tips for growing Amaryllis:
Creating a really successful display requires more than just colour coordinating, it’s about getting the timings right and choosing varieties with flowering heights and differing flower forms which sit together harmoniously. On top of that, it’s good to consider choosing the right plants for the spot – the bulbs in your combination will look their best if they all like to grow in the same conditions.
We’ve put together a new range of spring bulb combinations, some specifically suited to growing in particular places like rockeries, woodland, lawn or shade areas, and others simply for their sheer combined flower power! If you’re looking for inspiration for combinations in your spring garden, look no further than this fabulous 15…
Create your own traditional woodland setting with this combination of three classic varieties, ideal for growing in dappled shade beneath trees or shrubs. Including Eranthis Hyemalis (winter aconite), Anemone blanda ’Blue Shades’ (wood anemone) and Galanthus nivalis (snowdrop), this selection brings colour to the space from mid-winter onwards, with the classic snowdrops being the first to peep through in January, followed by a vibrant peppering of yellow aconites in February and then vivid blue wood anemones.
These low growing bulbs are excellent for naturalising into a woodland area. All are perennial and all will return every year, each time in bigger groups, over the years creating effortless, established drifts of colour.
This woodland planting combination includes (from left to right):
Make a shady spot sparkle with this combination of shade-loving beauties, including Erythronium ‘Pagoda’ (Dog’s Tooth Violet), Anemone blanda ‘White Splendour’, Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ and Scilla siberica. Blooming simultaneously from March through to early May with varied heights, colours and flower shapes, an otherwise bland shaded space can become every bit as colourful as the sunnier parts of the garden!
These bulbs are reliably perennial too, meaning you can enjoy this fabulous display year after year. This combination is also suitable for mixing and matching in patio containers.
This shade planting combination includes (from left to right):
Kick start the spring season with this colourful combination of early wonders, a well-balanced mixture which will bring a ray of sunshine to your February garden. Comprising Crocus ‘Gipsy Girl’, Iris histrioides ‘George’ and Narcissus ‘February Gold’, the combination of warm orange Crocuses and sunny yellow Daffodils not only provides an eye catching highlight, but they help to draw the attention in to the very dainty Iris histrioides ‘George’ with its exquisite details and contrasting rich mauve hue.
Grow this perennial combination in pots, borders or rockeries and enjoy an early spring treat when they pop up every year.
This early spring planting combination includes (from left to right):
Bridge that gap between spring and summer with a combination of bulbs which will emerge fresh and vibrant between late April and early June. Tall and upright, this combination makes a big impression in a border in full sun or partial shade. Tulip ‘Ballerina’ emerges in late April with its dazzling orange flowers, closely followed by the jewel-like purple globes of Allium ‘Purple Sensation’ for contrast. Bee-friendly Nectaroscordum siculum blooms at the same time, with elegant clusters of subtle-coloured blooms.
This late spring planting combination includes (from left to right):
Dwarf and alpine varieties are ideal for tucking in to the little nooks and crannies of a rockery, and this combination will ensure your gravel, stone or rocky planting area has those essential glimmers of colour throughout early spring. Comprising three dainty varieties, cheery Iris reticulata ‘Katherine’s Gold’ emerges first in late winter. Soon after you get to enjoy the sunny faces of Narcissus bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’ and eye-catching Tulip coerulea oculata ‘Alba’ – a wonderfully compatible rockery duo!
If you don’t have a rockery or gravel garden, get the same effect on a small scale by planting these three in a stone planter.
This rockery planting combination includes (from left to right):
Cater for the earliest bees with this flowering collection of nectar-rich varieties. Blooming from January and continuing in succession through to late March, the early emerging bumblebees will be delighted to find this essential food source in your garden. Comprising Galanthus nivalis (snowdrop), which establishes over the years and forms naturalistic groups of flowers in January, coupled with sunny yellow Eranthis hyemalis (winter aconite). Then gorgeous Crocus ‘Orange Monarch’ comes along in February to March joined by rich blue contrast of Muscari armeniacum (grape hyacinth).
Suitable for pots or borders, this colourful mix will look fantastic and have the bees buzzing to your garden – what better way to welcome the spring!
This early bee-friendly planting combination includes (from left to right):
Provide a feast for bees and butterflies (as well as an impressive upright display) from late spring through to early summer with this combination of stately, nectar-rich characters. Including Allium sphaerocephalon, a long-lasting perennial with drumsticks of tightly-packed purple blooms which are a magnet for all pollinators, Nectarscodum siculum which forms an attractive umbrella of bell-like blooms, and ever-popular dark-flowered Fritillaria persica ‘Twin Towers Tribute’, another variety known to benefit bees.
Not only do these varieties with upright habits and dusky blooms look chic together, but they’re a great choice for any wildlife conscious gardener too!
This late bee-friendly planting combination includes (from left to right):
Enjoy reliable spring colour year after year with this harmonious trio of perennial bulbs, all of which will gradually naturalise in your borders or through grass, getting better and better each time! Comprising Tulip sylvestris, a much-loved botanical tulip with delicate informal yellow blooms, Camassia ‘Blue Donau’ with starry blue blooms for contrast and elegant white Narcissus ‘Thalia’, this combination flowers from March through to May for a succession of interest suitable for borders or relaxed, informal rough grassy areas.
This naturalising planting combination includes (from left to right):
Spruce up your spring lawn with colourful accents in complementary mauve, yellow and blue. This trio of naturalising bulbs light up the lawn from February through to March so you get to enjoy them looking their best conveniently before the grass needs its first cut of the year. Chionodoxa lucilieae and Crocus sieberi ‘Tricolor’ are low growing and will emerge neatly through the lawn, multiplying over the years to form gentle swathes. Narcissus ‘Jetfire’ provides that much-needed early-spring hit of bright orange and yellow, formed in sturdy clumps which increase in size over the years, ideal for locating around the edges of the lawn or next to trees.
This lawn planting combination includes (from left to right):
Make a meadow or rough grass area extra special by introducing some interesting highlights, including meadow favourites Camassia ‘Pale Pink’, Fritillaria meleagris and Leucojum ‘Gravetye Giant’. All three varieties do really well in the cool, moist soil of a long grassy area and being perennial they will happily return each year. The tall, upright stems of the Camassia and Leucojum hold the delicate flowers up above the grass, while Fritillaria meleagris nestles nicely along the edges and in the shorter areas.
If you’re going for a natural look, plant these bulbs in uneven groups with scatterings of single bulbs in between. Over the years they will multiply and groups will become denser and more eye catching.
This meadow planting combination includes (from left to right):
If you consider yourself a bit of a plant connoisseur then you’ll love this combination of botanical bulbs, all with unusual looks which are individually stunning but also make a marvellous match when planted together. Tulip bakerii ‘Lilac Wonder’ is a low growing variety which naturalises, forming delicate groups of pale mauve blooms with yellow centres. These simple but effective tulips are great for planting under taller varieties – below the wiry red flame-like blooms of Tulip acuminata, these two make quite the peppy pair. To tone down the display, the third dimension is the dreamy dark bell flowers of Fritillaria elwesii, perfect for accenting the bright blooms of the tulips, all three varieties flowering around March and April.
Grow this combination together in a pot, border, gravel garden or rockery and look forward to a sophisticated show of botanical charm!
This botanical planting combination includes (from left to right):
Soften your style by filling pots or border spaces with this airy combination of pastel-toned blooms. Peach, pink and apricot shades are effortlessly stylish and bring a subtle warmth to a pastel colour palette without stealing the show away from neighbouring plants. Tulip ‘Apricot Beauty’ alongside late-flowering Narcissus ‘Cha Cha’ with its shimmering white petals and apricot trumpet certainly makes a well coordinated pair. And to throw an unexpected twist into the mix which enhance the peachy-pink tones of the tulips and daffodils is a delicate contrast of pointed blue flower clusters of long-lasting Bellevalia pycnantha – this trio is a colour combo made in heaven!
All three varieties grow well in full sun and will also tolerate partial or dappled shade. Mingle them together for an evenly balanced display, or try planting them in neighbouring groups for a more defined look.
This pastel planting combination includes (from left to right):
Don’t be afraid to clash colours, you might be surprised to find that a trio of contrasting brights can indeed sing in tune! See in spring with a riot of colour in patio pots and borders with this daring combination including some beautifully vibrant varieties which will have your garden positively humming with colour from March through to May. This well-balanced display comprising Tulip ‘Orange Princess’, Hyacinth ‘Woodstock’ and Anemone ‘Sylphide’ will inject a healthy splash of colour which will proudly parade itself as a centrepiece.
Best enjoyed in a moden boho style garden or as part of a traditional multicolour cottage-style planting scheme where colour flows freely - don your sunglasses and prepare for summer!
This vibrant planting combination includes (from left to right):
Upgrade an exotic-themed planting scheme with a blast of rich tropical tones next spring. This combination includes unusual, noteworthy varieties with intense colouring, perfect for growing in borders or containers and particularly satisfying when grown amid lush leafy palms of foliage plants. Trendy trio Fritillaria imperialis ‘Rubra’, Tulip ‘Slawa’ and Muscari ‘Golden Fragrance’ are not only well suited for a jungle theme, they’ll look every bit as brilliant in a formal setting or full mixed flower border.
To get the best effect with this combination, plant the tulips and fritillarias in groups with the lower-growing muscari in a bold drift in front or dotted around in between.
This exotic planting combination includes (from left to right):
Make a pretty pot display with this combination of compact plants, including Tulip ‘Pretty Princess’, Chionodoxa luciliae ‘Violet Beauty’ and fragrant Narcissus ‘Albus Plenus Odoratus’. If you like this combo, don’t feel you have to confine it to your patio pots, they’re all suitable for growing in borders too. Chionodoxa emerges first with its enchanting amethyst-coloured starry blooms, nestled in with the cool white-margined leaves of the tulips. Later the fragrant cream-coloured double daffodils burst into bloom closely followed by the amazing pink-flamed tulips.
With a succession of flowers starting in early March and continuing through to May, this impressive and scented planting scheme can be the highlight of the patio!
This container planting combination includes (from left to right):
]]>Packing your garden full of flowers so that pollinators like bees and butterflies never have far to travel to get to their next meal is a fantastic way to help. Not only will this benefit them, but your garden will look fabulous at the same time and they will in turn pollinate your plants to keep your garden healthy and productive.
Whether your garden is big or small, you live in a built-up area or out in the countryside, planting as many flowers as you can squeeze in turns it into the perfect stop-off and refuel point for a busy bee. If you live in the city, even a window box or container on a balcony can be a lifeline for bees.
There’s nothing better and more rewarding than a beautiful garden which is filled with colour and buzzing with life. Focusing on autumn-planting varieties, we’ve come up with a selection of bulbs which provide a fantastic source of nectar from late winter when the bees first emerge, right through to early summer.
Do your bit to help boost the bee population by choosing from our Top 10 bee-friendly bulbs for planting in autumn:
You can’t go wrong with a variety which has ‘nectar’ in its name – Nectaroscordum silicum, also known as Allium silicum or 'Sicilian Honey Garlic', is not only a great plant for bringing bees to the garden, but is incredibly beautiful too. Flowering during early summer, they’re the perfect plant for keeping interest in the garden after the spring flowers have faded and while summer plants are still establishing.
All Alliums attract pollinators and are a favourite with bumblebees, honeybees and butterflies. Allium 'Globemaster' is an excellent example, blooming in early summer with giant flowerheads formed of masses of nectar-rich purple flowers. Each giant flowerhead is a real feast for a bee, they also get to maintain their energy levels as there is no need to tire themselves out by flying from flower to flower.
Flowering from around February to March at the same time as the first bumblebees are beginning to wake up, Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite) are an essential source of nectar. A naturalising variety, their beautiful golden-yellow blooms form a cheery blanket of colour, returning in bigger and more impressive natural dirfts year after year.
The common snowdrop is the best snowdrop variety for attracting bees. Plus, it flowers from January onwards so it’s great for any pollinators which are waking up early. Snowdrops notoriously take a while to establish but over the years they form beautiful, natural drifts which create a wonderful effect in borders or woodland areas.
Beautiful, chunky upright goblet flowers which come back every year and available in an array of colours are always a welcome sight in spring. Crocuses are a real delight in any early spring garden and the bees just love them. Not only are they nectar-rich, but queen bumblebees even use their flowers, which close at night, to sleep in!
This classic ground cover is a nectar feast for bees. Over the years these strong naturalisers form magnificent swathes of blue, perfect for filling a bare space with tricky growing conditions or to underlay any spring planting scheme. All Muscari (more commonly known as Grape Hyacinths) are beneficial to bees, but it is the traditional Muscari armeniacum which they love the most.
Perfect for growing in a cool, grassy area, these elegant and natural Snake’s Head Fritillaries provide a great source of nectar for bees in mid-spring. If you’re re-wilding a part of your garden or you have a meadow area, these are really fitting. They’ll also do well in borders, flowering each year with their pretty lantern-like flowers which pop up in either white or maroon.
The large-flowered Allium 'Mount Everest' provides plenty of blooms all in one convenient flowerhead. Like all Alliums, they’re a magnet for bees and butterflies. This white form is great for combining with mauve-flowered varieties to make an eye catching contrast that looks bold and impressive in the late-spring garden.
Plant top-size Colchicum and Sternbergia bulbs in early autumn and they will flower just a couple of months later in the same year! These beautiful autumn crocus naturalise too, so each year they will return for a repeat show. These big blooms provide a much-needed injection of colour to the garden as well as essential fuel for bees during the late season. Bumblebees visiting Colchicum and Sternbergia flowers are stocking up ready for a long winter hibernation.
Bees can’t resist the nectar-rich flowers of Camassia, and this makes them a great asset for a wild area of the garden, meadow or a mixed cottage-style border. These moisture-loving bulbs are happiest the cool dampness of a meadow area where their upright stems will hold their clusters of beautiful starry flowers at just the right height to shine above long meadow grass. Camassias are perennial bulbs and will naturalise over the years, forming bigger groups and more flowers each time they return in late spring.
Growing spring-flowering bulbs couldn’t be easier! All of the above are fully hardy and simply require planting directly outside in the autumn. There is no need to water in after planting or to water your bulbs through the winter months. When planting in containers, a good-quality peat-free multipurpose or a compost mixed with loam is ideal.
When planting directly into borders, choose a space which benefits from full sun or partial shade with preferably a free-draining soil. In areas with heavy clay soil, it is a good idea to add a small amount of grit when planting your bulbs to help loosen the structure of the soil slightly. Fritillaria meleagris and Camassia grow happily through grass as well as borders and prefer a cool, moist soil.
Bulbs come in various forms and sizes and require different planting techniques so it is best to check the individual instructions on each of our product pages for best results. As a general rule, flower bulbs should be planted at 2-3 times of the size of the bulb deep. If the bulb has a pointed side, this should be facing upwards.
Some bulbs or corms are naturally small and may be more nugget like without a pointed side, in which case it doesn’t matter which way up they are planted as they will find their own way and turn as they start to grow.
Our Top 10 bee-friendly spring bulb varieties listed above are all perennial and will flower year after year. That’s great news for the bees which have made their habitat in your garden! Enjoy them to the full during their flowering months, and then when the blooms start to fade allow them to die down naturally. They can be deadheaded, but the stem and leaves while green will still be using sunlight to transfer energy to the bulb which it needs to flower again the following year. Once the foliage has turned yellow it can be cut down to the base. There is no need to lift or store the bulbs listed above, just simply let them stay in place and naturalise in your garden!
]]>Green-fingered Margaret is a keen and talented gardener and enjoys filling her own garden with colour through the seasons with flower bulbs. Having worked in horticulture in the past, teaching young people and adults with disabilities and special educational needs this rewarding and therapeutic subject, it’s fair to say that Margaret certainly knows her onions and has done a great thing in sharing her knowledge and influencing many people to get involved in the industry. Having not been to Keukenhof before but long been on the wish-list, winning this trip was a great surprise for Margaret and proved to be the perfect day out!
Throughout April, Keukenhof displays are a successive spectacular of Hyacinths, Muscari, Daffodils and Tulips in an entire spectrum of colours and eye-popping planting combinations. Visiting the gardens in late April, Margaret was able to experience the Tulips at Keukenhof in full bloom, surrounded by the vibrant backdrop of flowering Azaleas and Rhododendrons.
This year’s Keukenhof theme was Flower Power, inspired by the funky colours, hippies, peace and music of the early 1970’s. The gardens dotted with brightly decorated VW Campervans was a cheery sight and also a nice surprise particularly for Margaret who used to own one! Having wandered and enjoyed the entire garden through the day, a drive past the bulb fields and plenty of good gardening chat was the ideal way to end the afternoon.
What did you think about the trip?
“Thank you all for a wonderful two-day stay. Both Joanne and I enjoyed it immensely. I’m so glad I chose to come in late April as so many Azaleas and Rhododendrons were already in flower. They made a great backdrop for the Tulip displays.
“The park was well set up for wheelchair users, which was quite a relief. It can be quite difficult when you have mobility problems. Our hotel was fantastic too, it was so comfortable. The food was a delight for me and very much to my taste, possibly due to my Austrian forbears.”
What have you grown from the Farmer Gracy range and what would you recommend to others?
“For summer, I think that my favourite plant would be the Calla Lily ‘Rainbow’ Collection that you gave to us!
“For spring I would recommend Tulip ‘China Town’. My personal choice for next year will be the ‘Bobby Charlton’ Collection, which includes blue Grape Hyacinths and White Anemones – I will certainly be ordering that collection.”
If you would like to win a trip to Keukenhof next spring, do keep an eye out for our next competition which will be live on our website and across social media channels from later on this the year!
]]>Tucked in below trees, within shrubberies or in a meadow area, they look most at home and natural. But these tough cookies aren’t fussy and are happy with any shady spot, even if your planting space is limited or you have a small garden or a light-poor urban outside space, you can introduce some of these easy-going superstars to help transform it into a lush little hideaway.
Erythronium are wonderfully elegant with their slender, upright stems which each carry multiple blooms with exotic-looking reflexed petals. But their long lasting and pretty flowers aren’t their only asset. They also have attractive foliage too, some with striking mottled markings to add to their charm and extend the season of interest and ground cover right through to summer.
Erythronium bulbs (image by Sevenoaks Native Nursery)
The bulb of Erythronium is long, pointed and white. This is the part that resembles a dog’s tooth and is how this plant gets its common name. Over the years these hardy perennial bulbs multiply and increase in size, producing a bigger and more established group which appears with more and more flower stems and a bigger patch of lovely glossy foliage each time.
Erythronium like to chill out in cool, damp conditions and do best when planted in soil which stays fairly moist. This makes them the ideal candidate for brightening up a dull spot, whether that’s in a north-facing garden, a small shady courtyard or within a woodland or meadow area.
They’re easy to grow and very reliable given the right conditions. Follow these simple steps to planting and you’ll be in for a lovely springtime treat!
Erythronium aftercare:
Part of the joy of growing these beauties is that they require very little in terms of maintenance, if at all. Once they’re soundly established in the soil, they will produce a neat clump of fresh foliage which will eventually die back of its own accord later on in the year. The flower stems don’t require any support, and the plant doesn’t need feeding either. This is simply a plant to have and enjoy!
Over the years the Erythronium clump will establish and grow, gradually spreading. If you decide to divide them, they can be lifted in late spring, after flowering, separated into smaller groups and re-planted wherever needed.
Erythronium in brief:
From the traditional ‘wild’ Dog’s Tooth Violets to the more extravagant modern types, all are just as easy and reliable to grow as one another so you can simply choose which colour best suits your style. In a variety of different colours, some with attractive leaf markings and others with lush emerald green glossy foliage, you’ll be spoilt for choice!
But you don’t have to just stick to one variety, they look amazing planted in mixed groups too – so why not go for a selection? Be inspired by our top three Erythronium varieties…
This dainty gem will blow you away with its effortless beauty. Incredibly slender but strong and upright stems carry elegant nodding lemon-yellow blooms with recurved petals during mid-spring. The foliage is broad, glossy and has subtle maroon mottled markings.
Nodding flowers with elegant recurved petals and a sophisticated and subtle creamy-white colouring look great as a feature on their own, but also combine beautifully with spring flowers of virtually any other colour. This jaw-droppingly stylish variety with subtly mottled foliage brings a welcome highlight to any shady planting scheme.
There’s no mistaking this classic Dog’s Tooth Violet with its traditional colouring. A more compact variety, ideal for use as ground cover as it slowly establishes over the years and providing a long season of interested with its pretty patterned foliage. Cyclamen-like mauve-pink blooms with upright petals and contrasting yellow stamens make an eye-catching detail in a shady border.
When selecting plants to create a successful planting scheme, it’s essential to choose plants which will thrive in the same conditions as well as their flowering times and height. In a shady planting scheme, a mixture of colours really lifts the space out of the dark and can look very natural. For a more formal look, choose a combination of just two colours for a long-lasting, harmonious display.
Here are some of our favourite Erythronium planting partners:
Chionodoxa luciliae + Erythroniums ↑
Flowering slightly earlier than Erythronium, Chionodoxa is a great one for bringing the season forward, providing colour throughout March which then makes way for the Erythronium flowers with a short overlap in the middle. While the Dog’s Tooth Violet prefers a shady area, Chionodoxa will grow well in either sun or shade, making a wonderfully compatible and unfussy partner.
If you have a meadow, rough grass or informal wildlife area, both Fritillaria meleagris and Erythronium would love to dwell in it together! They flower simultaneously too so you get to enjoy a pretty contrast of colour and flower shape, both on airy slender upright stems. This perfect pair also work well in a woodland style planting scheme.
It’s hard to beat Muscari for reliability and unfussy nature - it will happily grow well in most soils and aspects. If you’re planting up a partially shady bed, a carpet of these delicate little flowers running through it will make a wonderful colour contrast below the Erythronium, which bloom at the same time.
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↑ Get in on the hype of tropical greenery with Colocasias
Strong, impressive clumps of upright stems flaunt the most extraordinary large, heart-shaped leaves and come in a flashy range of intense shades. Both in the home and garden, you can make a big feature with Colocasia and enjoy their colour and stately structure over a long season, as well as benefitting from the relaxing ambience that they seem to create so effortlessly.
If you want to give your garden a holiday feel or a tropical theme, a border or patio container planting scheme including something big and lush like Colocasias is a must! Even if you’re not going for a jungle look, these versatile plants will fit in well with most styles. They also look great in a contemporary or minimalist style garden or terrace or modest city courtyard. Use them to create a vibrant, snazzy backdrop for bright flowering plants or let them take centre stage as an impressive standalone focal point.
Colocasias originate from tropical Asia and are adapted to thrive in a warm, humid environment. It’s entirely possible to grow them successfully outdoors in the UK – think jungle conditions, so full sun or partial shade, plenty of water, rich soil and a warm, sheltered part of the garden. Either plant them straight outside after risk of frost has passed (normally around late May) or give them a head start by starting them off in your home.
You can also grow your Elephant Ears as a houseplant. Enjoying a humid atmosphere and filtered light, they’re a great choice for a bathroom or kitchen. If you really want to make the most of them, start them off in spring as a houseplant and then move them out into the garden in the summer!
Colocasia grow from tubers which look like baseballs. They have ring markings and often a pointed tip or shoot on the upper side, occasionally there are some small roots on the under side. Plant with the pointed side (or the side with rings) facing upwards at quite a shallow depth so that the tip of the tuber is ever-so slightly above the soil surface.Planting instructions for Colocasia bulbs
Colocasia will not tolerate frost, so if you would like to keep the bulbs for next year they should be removed from the ground just before the first frosts, have the foliage cut off and stored indoors for winter – in a tray in a dry, airy place such as a cool greenhouse, shed or garage is fine. If planted in pots, the entire pot can be moved into a greenhouse or a warm part of your home. Elephant's Ear plants can remain evergreen throughout the winter if they are kept at temperatures above 21C. Lower temperatures may cause the foliage to die back during the winter, but as long as they are kept frost free they will grow new leaves the following year.
Prepare for your mind to be blown! Too see the full extent of colours available you simply must see the full range of Colocasias. Here are three of our favourites:
With large leaves as dark as night you can imagine what a spectacular contrast this variety creates in any planting scheme. Be it with other foliage plants or with brightly-coloured flowered flowers like dahlias or begonias.
A bicolour beauty with amazing mottled foliage in shades of neon green and purple with a bright green spark of chunky veins on every leaf. This impressive variety has its very own contrast and looks great as a feature plant or focal point. It also combines well with other foliage plants and flowers.
Chard-like stems in a vivid shade of pink carry the large exotic green leaves. When you catch these leaves with the sunlight shining through them they look particularly striking and glowy, showing off fantastic pink vein patterns. This variety is ideal for growing in pots where the vibrant stems can really stand out.
Plant this summer superstar in combinations with other bold flowering and foliage plants to create a really jaw-dropping and exotic summer display. Take into account their preferred growing conditons (hot, sheltered and sunny/partially shaded) and pair them up with plants that like the same and they’ll make great companions! Here are some ideas for inspiration:
Large, brightly-coloured dahlias, such as Dahlia 'Red Labyrinth' are every bit as big and powerful as Colocasia. Both enjoying a sunny spot and plenty of moisture, these two will make a really jam-packed display with colour and contrast that lasts right through to late summer.
The dainty flowers and slender stems of Bessera elegans are a complete contrast to chunky Colocasia but the two are a match made in heaven. These exotic 'Coral Drops' will shine beautifully against a sturdy backdrop of richly-coloured Colocasia.
If you want to pair up your Colocasias with another leafy, architectural number, Cannas are just the job. Cannas produce upright towers of large banana-like leaves in a range of colours, then topped off with a bright flower in late summer. With a narrow habit, they’re perfect for planting in groups and making a really chocka looking planting scheme.
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↑ Growing Hedychiums is easier than you might think
Hedychiums are great if you want to add height and structure to border combinations. You don’t have to wait long for these towering upright perennial superstars to make an impact, they reach full size in just one season, plus they grow back for another fantastic show every year thereafter too. Despite being tall, they have a narrow footing so don’t take up too much room – they quite like to be planted close so you can really pack them in to make bold blocks in planting schemes for a really full and professional-looking border display.
Whether your garden style is fully tropical themed or you enjoy a full mix of plant types, these wonderful gingers just ease their way into any style. Plant them in groups in a sunny border and look forward to being immersed in their fabulous tropical vibe!
Despite their incredibly exotic and impressive looks, growing Ginger Lilies is easier than you might think. They just need a good sunny spot in the garden with a nice rich soil and they will be very happy. Hedychiums are very strong, their chunky stems support themselves well, so there’s little need for staking.
They’re even fairly hardy too, so in most cases they survive a typical winter with just a topping of mulch, then they’ll return with more incredible stems the following spring. But as they’re not fully frost hardy they’ll need a little bit of extra care to get them off to a good start in their first year. The best way is to pot them up and grow them indoors before transplanting outside a little later, or to wait until risk of frost has passed if you’re opting to plant them straight outside into the ground.
Hedychiums grow from rhizomes which look like thick, knobbly roots. Often, when they are supplied they already have some reddish buds developing on the rhizome – these buds are what grow into the stems of the plant. When planting, the rhizomes need to be positioned on their side just below the soil surface with any visible shoots facing upwards.
Choose a border which receives plenty of sun through the day or is in shade for just part of the day. Hedychiums do best in a sheltered spot, away from strong winds. These tall-growing perennials are perfectly suited to a mixed border where they should be planted in close groups. With a very narrow spread and also happy to be quite confined, Ginger Lilies do well in small beds and borders or even large patio containers.
Planting instructions for Hedychiums
Enjoy your plants right through to the first frosts in autumn. As soon as the frost touches the leaves they will lose their colour, and this is the time to cut them back. Use secateurs or loppers to cut the stems off at around 5cm above ground level.
These perennial plants can tolerate frost, although they need a bit of extra insulation during the winter months to protect them from long periods of freezing temperatures. In most areas of the UK, a generous topping of dry mulch over the crown of the plant is sufficient protection against snow or deep frosts. If you want to be extra safe, you can also pin down a layer of horticultural fleece over the dry mulch. This would need to be removed when the weather starts to warm up and the stems begin to grow again in the spring, which is usually around April.
There’s a wonderful variety of Hedychiums to choose from with different flower forms and colours. They’re highly fragrant, with a sweet, spicy scent! Here are out top three:
This fabulous Shaving Brush Ginger Lily really makes a bold statement, with green architectural foliage which provides interest and padding to planting schemes from early summer right through to autumn. Typically growing to a height of between 1.5-2.5m tall and topped with an exquisite plume of wispy flowers from late summer onwards, it’s a real showpiece!
Also known as the Kahili Ginger Lily, Hedychium gardnerianum is known to be one of the most hardy and resilient. The flowerheads are particularly large, bearing ornate wispy yellow blooms with striking red stamens for an extra eye-catching display. Blooming in late summer above a 1.5-2.5m tall leafy stem, it brings a new burst of colour and freshness to the garden just when it’s needed most.
With a tall upright flowerhead comprising intricate highly fragrant orange flowers during late summer, if you like the hot colours of the late season this is a fabulous plant to add to your collection! These distinctive flowerheads are produced at the top of an impressive stem of large green leaves, typically reaching a height of between 1.5-2.5m. Ideal for the middle of a mixed flower border or for nestling among tropical foliage plants.
If you’re looking for ideas of what to pair up with these gorgeous plants, let us inspire you with some of our favourite Hedychium planting partners!
Late-summer blooming and enjoying a garden hot spot, these two both have complementing upright structures and flaunt warm, fiery flower colours.
Similar in growing habit and tropical, leafy appeal, Canna and Hedychium are a match made in heaven! What’s more, they both treat you to additional late-summer colour when they wrap up the season with a burst of impressive flower power.
If you’re going for a tropical look, striking foliage is a key ingredient. Try combing your Hedychium plants with Colocasia ‘Black Magic’ for a full and contrasting foliage display which lasts through most of the season.
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↑ Acidanthera murielae does very well in a cottage style garden schemes
You can prolong your summer with late-summer gems such as Acidanthera. It’s wonderful to look forward to the fresh burst of interest they bring to the garden just as earlier summer blooms may be starting to look tired. With a graceful, airy look, these purple-blotched white flowers appear at the top of upright stems above neat sword-like foliage. Plant them in groups and they provide an overall soft look which brings gentle movement to planting schemes as well as packing an impressive, heady scent. On top of that, they make fantastic cut flowers too, fit for a really special arrangement!
Originating from East Africa, these sun-loving and drought-tolerant plants grow well in a garden suntrap where they’ll require very little fuss to put on a lovely, easy show. Not entirely frost hardy, they’re normally treated as an annual, although they do often survive winter in the ground in milder parts of the UK or coastal areas. Alternatively, they can be lifted in autumn and stored for winter.
Acidanthera murielae grow from corms which look like traditional bulbs, with a papery copper-coloured outer coating, a rounded side and a pointed side. These corms should be planted singly into each hole approximately 20cm deep with the pointed side facing upwards.
Give Acidanthera the sunniest spot in the garden which is sheltered from strong winds, they will thrive in virtually any soil. Happy in pots, you can enjoy them up close on the patio, near to a seating area where their scent and attractive flower details can really be noticed. If you prefer, use them to create impressive drifts in the border among other flowering perennials or foliage plants. They look best planted in groups of six of more so the delicate stems can make a big impact.
Planting instructions for Acidanthera murielae
Acidanthera in bloom
Acidanthera sit quietly in the soil throughout early summer, but once they start to grow they do so quite quickly and normally will be in full bloom by around late August or early September. First, the sword-like leaves emerge around early August, soon after followed by an upright stem bearing multiple blooms which open in succession. The delicate-looking star-like flowers have a punchy and distinctive purple blotch, their fragrance is sweet and fresh!
Acidanthera are tender perennials, which mean they have the ability to return each year if stored correctly during winter. Whilst they can tolerate a cold temperatures, they won’t survive a typical wet UK winter with temperatures close to freezing for long periods of time. So unless you live in a particularly mild area or have a secluded, sheltered part of the garden that manages to stay frost free during the winter, Abyssinian gladioli are best either grown as an annual and discarded at the end of the season, or stored in a frost free place until the following spring.
You can safely enjoy your Acidanthera right up until Autumn. Allow them to stay in situ right up until the first frosts touch the leaves, then it’s time to cut them back.
If your Acidanthera are grown in pots, you can simply cut back the foliage and move the pot to a sheltered, cool but frost-free location and leave them there until the following spring. If they’re in borders or you wish to free-up your pots for winter bedding, carefully dig up the bulbs then cut off the foliage. Shake any soil from the bulbs and store them in a tray on a shallow layer of old compost in a cool greenhouse or shed. In the spring, they can be replanted.
When choosing planting partners, consider their flowering times, growing preferences and heights. Acidanthera enjoys a sunny spot, flowers during late summer and grows up to around 1m tall, so try to match those three points with the habits of any potential partner for a full and harmonious display. Looking for inspiration? Here are three great planting partners to team-up with your Abyssinian gladioli!
Dahlias put on a fantastically prolific show which lasts right through summer and well into autumn. Perfect timing for combining with late-summer flowering Acidanthera. Both blooming simultaneously, the stocky dahlias and delicate Acidanthera look great together. There’s a huge range of dahlias to choose from, Dahlia ‘Honka Black’ sets a striking contrast!
Sun-loving Agapanthus sit perfectly happily in the same conditions as Acidanthera, and the contrasting flower forms of the two, both produced at similar heights, makes for a beautiful display. Extra special Agapanthus varieties, like ‘Black Buddhist’ make a luxurious colour combo.
With bold, architectural foliage which maintains its fresh look throughout summer and into autumn, Cannas create the perfect contrasting backdrop which really shows off the slender grassy foliage and dainty flowers of Acidanthera. Both plants thrive in sun, plant them in neighbouring groups for a really impressive border combination!
]]>Indoor plants are the perfect way to add the finishing touches to your home interior, adding a little splash of living, natural colour wherever its needed. Not only are they useful for brightening up your home and acting as a pretty feature, but their textured leaves or colourful flowers have a relaxing, calming effect as well as helping to purify the air.
With indoor gardening becoming in an increasingly big deal, either for those who don’t have an outside space of their own or for anyone who just loves to be surrounded living greenery in their home, choosing reliable and low-maintenance house plants makes all the difference to this rewarding past time.
The bigger the bulb, the stronger the plants and the better the bloom! Our top-size Gloxinia tubers are healthy and fast growing, ready to burst into growth as soon as they’re planted, given a little water and positioned in a warm spot. The best thing about starting off indoor plants yourself at home is that they acclimatise to your home conditions from the very beginning. This way, they don’t get stunted by the shock of moving from nursery conditions to a home interior where the light levels and air circulation may be different. Whether you’re a seasoned expert or new to indoor gardening, you can achieve great results with these reliable superstars and enjoy the rewards of establishing plants from scratch in your own home!
Gloxinias grow from tubers which look like a bit like begonia tubers. They are rounded, brown in colour and have a concave side and a convex side. The concave side is the upper side, so this is the side which should be facing upwards when. It isn’t always possible to tell which side is the upper side, so in these instances it’s perfectly fine to plant the tuber on its side and it will correct itself as it starts to grow.
Here are some simple steps to help you get started:
Spring-planted Gloxinias will produce foliage within the first month or so and are normally in bloom by the summer.
Brighten your home with the best Gloxinias. Here are four of our favourites:
This extra-vibrant Gloxinia is sure to add a splash of colour to your home, flowering throughout summer with vivid pink petals and an intense red throat for a gorgeously two-tone display.
Bring extra pizzazz to your indoor garden with this vibrant bicolour beauty! Amazing rounded petals have a deep edge of white which contrasts spectacularly with deep mauve-blue centre.
A bold display of eye-popping red blooms with a crisp white edge make a striking feature in the home. These bicolour flowers are ideal for interiors of a more minimalist style, acting as a bright feature.
For anyone who admires the simple beauty of white flowers, you’ll love this outstanding, unfussy variety. It’s just the job for anyone who likes to keep the colour tones subtle and muted, or for use as a contrast if you already have plenty of colour features in your home!
If space is limited in your garden, or you have a courtyard space, a Japanese planting scheme works really well. Often defined by paved, gravel areas or mossy areas, traditional Japanese flowering plants can be neatly spaced out in containers or small beds among decorative water features or structures.
Ornamental trees and shrubs are classic features in Japanese gardens, but bold splashes of colour from flowering plants are equally important. The best way to plant them is in small groups of individual varieties, either in pots of small beds, dotted around in well-spaced positions.
Get the Japanese look and create a bit of Zen in your own garden by introducing some of these gorgeous flowering plants:
Lycoris ↑
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Both Lycoris radiata and Lycoris aurea (also known as 'Spider Lilies') are traditional Japanese plants and are often given pride of place in Japan’s most spectacular gardens. They erupt in summer with impressive, bright blooms and create a stand-out show of colour which mingles well among ornamental trees and shrubs. Lycoris love a hot, sheltered and sunny spot in the garden, so they’re ideal for planting in a garden sun-trap. Doing well in gravel or stone areas as well as within large patio containers, their spectacular, wispy lily-like blooms with elegant long tendril stamens are a real highlight for both colour and detail!
Habenaria radiata ↑
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A few delicate details are a great addition to a Japanese garden, and what better way to introduce them than with an incredibly intricate 'Egret Orchid'. Resembling a bird of paradise in flight, the spectacular small blooms of this dainty white orchid flutter gently in the breeze from early to mid-summer. This half-hardy orchid is happy to be grown outdoors throughout the year, given a little winter protection, and is perfect for those lightly dappled shade areas. Plant them in free-draining soil or in mossy spaces among stones, or simply plant them in a pot to enjoy as a rather special patio centrepiece!
Roscoea ↑
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Growing in neat clumps with grassy upright foliage, these fully hardy and easy to grow beauties thrive in shade so are perfect for growing in an enclosed space, rockery, among ornamental trees or shrubs as well as in patio pots. With stunning orchid-like blooms, Roscoea cautlyoides and Roscoea purpurea sit perfectly comfortably within a Japanese style setting, providing an eye-catching flurry of colour throughout summer and into autumn. Producing multiple flowering stems per plant, each year these fantastic, low-maintenance Roscoea plants return for a repeat performance!
Bletilla ↑
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Bletilla, also known as the 'Urn Orchid' or 'Hardy Orchid', is a native plant of Japan and ideally suited to growing in the secluded dappled areas parts of the garden, where their exquisite orchid blooms will provide an elegant show of colour during spring and early summer. Despite its delicate looks, it’s very hardy and tolerates temperatures down to -10°C, so there’s no need to worry about lifting it during the winter months, allowing you to just enjoy its beautiful perennial flowers year after year. Growing in tidy clumps with upright sword-like foliage, they bring an architectural leafy appeal throughout the season as well as a stunning show of classic orchid flowers which are formed on slender racemes. Plant them in borders, pots, rockeries or mossy areas and enjoy their wonderful serene charm!
]]>Cannas are a funky and impressive summer bedding plant, best known for their fabulous, broad architectural foliage and vibrant blooms. Many varieties have striped bi- or tri-colour leaves which bring interest to the summer garden as soon as they’re planted. Throughout summer, they’ll grow taller and continue to produce these fresh, richly-coloured leaves. Then, to really put the icing on the cake, you’ll get a fantastic display of big, bright flowers at the top of each plant for an exciting pop of colour which lasts from late summer through to autumn. With all this to offer, Cannas really do add a special season-long value.
Both tall flowering and dwarf cannas create a lavish foliage display that will pad out any planting scheme with colour. With an upright and columnar habit, whilst being impressive and grand, they have a handy narrow footing which means they can be enjoyed in a modest space – perfect if you want to plant a punchy group of them in a large border or pack them in to a small corner bed. Tall varieties are ideal for planting at the back of the border, and the dwarf varieties are a real gem, perfect for positioning in smaller spaces, containers or at the front of the border.
Cannas are adapted to tropical temperatures and therefore not hardy in the UK, but despite this they do very well when used as a summer bedding plant. What’s more, they’re very easy to grow too. Supplied as rhizomes in the spring, it’s possible to get a great display from cannas by planting them directly outside in late May. But, if you have a heated greenhouse or conservatory in which to start them off in the spring, that’s the best way to go and they’ll already be looking fab by the time you get them out into the garden at the start of the summer!
Top tips for growing Cannas:
Planting Cannas straight outside:
Canna aftercare:
Overwintering Cannas:
Tall cannas are perfect for growing at the back of the border where they can act as a lush and attractive screen. Alternatively, they’re the ideal choice for planting in dramatic groups in the middle of a wide border. But despite the fact that they’re tall, they’re quite narrow so you don’t have to have a huge space to grow them. You can also use them to create a bit of privacy or a secluded garden hideaway in a small space – perfect if your garden is overlooked by neighbours!
Here are three of our favourite tall Cannas:
This Canna has possibly the most striking foliage of all, with pink, green and mauve striped leaves with hints of yellow. With almost a rainbow of colour just from the leaves, you’ll have plenty to look at throughout the summer season, followed by a big hit of extra colour from its vivid orange flowers from late summer onwards.
This unique Canna has wonderful green and cream variegated foliage which provide a bright and contrasting display all summer long. From late August onwards, you’ll be rewarded with plume of elegant apricot flowers to add a third splash of colour to the mix.
The large mauve-tinged green leaves of this variety are the perfect addition to an exotic planting scheme, bringing that lush a dense display which forms the perfect backdrop for any surrounding brightly coloured flowers. In late summer it really comes into its own with a punchy display of apricot blooms.
Dwarf canna varieties are ideal for planting in large patio containers or in smaller or more forefront border spaces. There is a great choice of dwarf Cannas to grow, all with unusual foliage and flowers to bring long-lasting colour to the summer garden.
Here are our top three dwarf Cannas for inspiration:
Your garden will look like a mini paradise with these bold beauties, flowering in late summer with wonderful coral-pink and intricately marked apricot flecks. The foliage is a rich bronze colour which sets the perfect contrast for the vibrant flowers as well as surrounding plants in your garden.
This compact Canna is a real delight in the garden, producing a dense display of exotic, broad foliage throughout summer and then topped with stunning orchid-like blooms from August onwards. Each petal of these unusual cream-coloured flowers is patterned with a speckling with tiny salmon pink dots.
Perfect for more toned-down displays, or for use as highlighting plants if you already have enough colour! These wonderful cannas produce lots of lovely fresh green foliage throughout the season, providing good, strong structural show. Then from late August, you’ll get a fabulous show of plain cream-coloured blooms which last right through to autumn.
With their stunning, broad and intensely-coloured foliage, cannas are not only stunning n their own right, but they make the perfect backdrop for other summer flowers before they go on to produce their own vibrant blooms later on in the season. Plants with a contrasting habit and bright flowers make the perfect planting partners, creating a really full and long-lasting show that lasts all summer long.
If you’re looking for inspiration to make a power-packed summer planting scheme, take a look at some of our favourite Canna partners:
Dahlias + Cannas ↑
Dahlias and Cannas have long been a popular pairing, both sun loving and flaunting a vibrant, tropical look with their blooms and foliage. Choose any type of Canna and Dahlia and they will undoubtedly look fantastic next to each other in a sunny border or patio planting scheme!
Broad-leaved plants like Cannas create the perfect setting, allowing more delicate flowers like Bessera elegans to fully strut their stuff in front. The dainty but vividly-coloured flowers of Bessera will really shine when planted in front of a patch of Cannas, particularly dark-leaves varieties.
Though flowering at different times, Anomatheca and Bessera provide a tropical-looking successive display which will last from early summer right through to autumn. The splashy salmon-pink flowers of Anomatheca laxa in early summer will contrast wonderfully against young Canna foliage, then gradually give way to the Canna flowers which will take over the colour display a bit later on in the season.
]]>It’s not a huge leap from knowing about Kniphofias to knowing how to grow them. After all, they’re not exactly fussy plants. If anything, knowing a little about Kniphofias means taking less trouble with them than you would with most bulbs. But, for those who have been hesitating and wondering whether these exotic-looking blooms can tolerate their lack of gardening experience, a few Kniphofia basics are sure to make reassuring reading.
Let’s take a jog through.
Although Kniphofias can also make very striking single-specimen accents, they’re at their very best when planted in a blazing mass. On the other end of the spectrum, they work well in the mid to late summer and autumn mixed border, combining well with Crocosmias, Dahlias, Foxgloves, Lilies, and Echinacea to name but a few flowering companions.
Remember that they are tall and that their foliage is quite showy. It takes up a fair amount of room, especially once the plants are established and begin to develop multiple crowns.
There are many Kniphofia species and cultivars, but Farmer Gracy has chosen two of the very best for you. They’re the classic, tall orange Kniphofias with their bright yellow skirts of stamens, but Kniphofia 'Alcazar' offers you a softer, apricot-orange while Kniphofia uvaria 'Grandiflora' is a deep orange-red that’s bound to be a focal point.
If you’ve never grown Red-Hot Pokers, now’s the time to try. I’ll admit that they’re personal favourites, and since Farmer Gracy brings you the very best, there’s no reason to delay getting started. Spring is your planting season – don’t miss it!
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